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Go to EA. Plug in. Don’t use any apps. Just plug in the charger. It’ll take a minute or two to start. 100% success rate for me.

Just be careful what kind of brush you use. Plastic bristles would damage the material. A soft natural fiber brush is the best choice.

The original service (prior to the clone option) was to reprogram the original ASG. That’s my understanding at least.

Ok, that is helpful to see where your numbers are coming from. Unfortunately those numbers are not accurate on any Taycan as far as I can tell. My car shows the same 3.1mi/kWh number on those screens. If you look at the individual trip numbers (since time, or since charging)you will see much...

Good to know. I’m tired of paying the USAA tax for “good customer service.” There customer service is a far cry from what it was a 15-20 years ago.

I’m in the process of dumping USAA $3800/year for progressive @ 1600/year. I’m doing the same for all vehicles and will save $4K/ year after the switch.

Vim Schrotnock, where did you get the 3.1 number? Asking because the in-car readout and app readout are quite incorrect on certain screens. I average 2.3 winter and 2.7 summer.

It sounds unnecessary. But we haven’t seen it. Insurance will cover damage in most cases.

I’ve had the updated software installed as well. I notice the long travel is much improved with the new software, but every once in a while the system is out of sync and I get long travel. The system has always been fine at high speeds. The updated TSB is much more clearly written, with...

I think both daveo4EV and Porsche Guru are correct. Idealism (based on legalese): It is the OEM’s challenge to prove the mod did the damage. Realism: The customer is taking a huge risk, as the customer will likely have to prove the mod did NOT cause the damage. As for buying an extra ECU...

I was noticing the same problem as the OP. I just updated the Tesla app and now it is working as it used to. The Magic Dock chargers show up with (other) vehicle selected.

Are you certain the 8/100 battery warranty covers ev drive train? I don’t think it does. That said, proving that the “tune” caused battery damage when other models have the same power output would be an uphill battle for the OEM. I imagine battery management and other protections remain in...

…and now we are all exhausted…

I ended up using 2 AWG wire. I did this for 2 reasons. 1) I had it in the garage and needed to use it and 2) I wanted it to be future proof for higher power charging applications in the future. Working with 2AWG wire is a pain. I don’t recommend it. I was able to get it routed into the wall...

I think that crease is normal and to be expected. I have it on both front seats. I’m a recovering OCD person. You’ll be ok…

I installed the same Tesla unit a week ago and it works fine. I think you have to get it to connect to WiFi to complete the registration process. During that process you set it to connect to “all vehicles”. Without that step, it is Tesla only. contact customer support and have them help...

Not discounting earlier points which are valid. I’ll share my experience. I used 110v to charge for about three months when I moved into a new house (prior to charger install). My electric usage spiked to 4 times higher than normal. I basically left he car plugged overnight, every night...

On the range display (under the speedometer) there are two symbols. One is an EV charger alone. The other has an EV charger with a triangle superimposed over the charger. There are two modes for that display. One is for range remaining, nav not active. The other is range remaining with Nav...

So, the problem I’m having is getting thick gauge wire to fit in a 60 amp breaker. The breaker terminals are for 4 or 6 gauge wire. I have some 2 gauge lying around that I’d prefer to use but it won’t fit into the breakers terminals. I also have some 6 gauge wire laying around but that...

I watched a large friend struggle to get in and out. It’s very tight for big people. B pillar placement is the biggest part of it.