Amperage usage control considerations for home charger

daveo4EV

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+10000000 for what epirali said - the ONLY way a EVSE/Charger "knows" what a circuit can handle is via the kind of PLUG-Adapter the unit is currently using…

there is _NO METHOD_ to "check" what a circuit can handle - the Porsche Unit and Tesla unit "imply" the correct current (volts * amps) from the current adapter attached to the unit.

you should only be using the sorts of adapter that match the breaker and wiring for the plug you are plugged into.

this is what can happen if you try and pull 40/50 amps across a 30 amp circuit - good thing the metal box stopped the fire


Porsche Taycan Amperage usage control considerations for home charger IMG_0794
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daveo4EV

daveo4EV

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So does the vehicle, in this case the Taycan, know what you are plugged into, especially in homes, whether a 120v plug or a Dryer plug with 40 amps or 60 amps? how is this controlled so that the vehicle doesn't attempt to use too much amperage and trip breakers or cause potential fire hazard if someone has a too high amp breaker but a too thin gauge wire.? There must be some sort of control, either automatic or manual.
there is _NO_ control.

you trust that the correct wire is installed for the correct breaker - it's a building code violation and a fire hazard to say for example use a 50 amp breaker with wire only rated for 20 amps - therefore the ENTIRE system is based on the premise that electrical circuits are installed in such a way that the wire & breaker & plug are all "matched" to the correct anticipated loads - in this system the breaker is the fail safe - it is supposed to "trip" if the electrical current exceeds it's rating (old days it was a fuse) - the breaker trips before the the "wire" will fail/melt/catch-fire - at least that is the theory - breakers are only about 99.99% reliable, which means they can fail - the last "safety" in that system is that your device electrical cord has a particular plug type- and the plug type also is matched to the maximum current the device should ever use - therefore the device should also never use more than the current indicated by it's plug - keeping the whole system "safe"...

this all falls apart and can cause great danger if you buy a $29 plug adapter from Amazon that coverts a 50 amp device plug (say an EV charger) to fit into a 20 amp plug in someones/your home - the device will still attempt to pull 50 amps, but will now be doing so with a breaker/wire/plug only rated for 20 amps - if you're lucky the breaker will trip before any damage occurs - if you're unlucky things will melt and potentially catch fire.

so if you TRUST that the breaker and the wire are "matched" - then you can plug _ANY_ device into that plug that uses _LESS_ than the breaker rating…if you somehow manage to plug a 60 amp device into a 30 amp plug (via an adapter you find on Amazon) then you could potentially pull too much current across the 30 amp rated wire, it will melt and if you lucky short out, and if you're not lucky start fire.

if you are converting plug types YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE for knowing what you are doing!

For example converting a NEMA 14-50 plug (the standard plug on the Porsche Charger) to a 30 AMP plug (NEMA 10-30/14-30) the Porsche Unit will "assume" it has a 50 amp circuit - it will NOT know you have plugged it into a 30 amp circuit- and will happily sit there and pull 40 amps from the 30 amp wire/plug/breaker...one of several things may/could happen

  1. the 30 amp breaker will trip because of the overcurrent load - this is why we have breakers
  2. the breaker could fail and not trip - at which point the wire will most likely overheat and short out or start a fire
@louv got away with his conversion because his father installed a 30 amp circuit that was OVERSPECIFICATION - even though there was a 30 amp plug for the dryer, the wire was 60 amp rated, and the breaker was 60 amps - so there was no danger in converting the stock Porsche NEMA 14-50 plug to the dryer's 30 amp plug…

but in general the plug type indicates the maximum current (volts * amps) that the plug and it's wiring and breaker are rated for.

it's dangerous to covert from a 50 amp plug to a 30/20 amp plug type if the device in question will pull the full 50 amps.

the "AUTOMATIC" systems are in the fact he PLUG currently attached to the EVSE/EV-Charger - it is assumed that you are plugging into the correct plug type - and therefore building codes will make it such that the plug type has correct wire/breaker for that type of load.
 
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Reg

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From the Porsche Connect Manual

Charging Current Limiting
The control unit detects the voltage and the available current automatically.
The power to be used for charging can be set using charging current limiting. The last charging current set is saved.

On delivery, the charging current is automatically limited to 50 % to prevent overheating of the electrical installation.
If the charger is connected to an energy manager, the energy manager limits the charging current in accordance with the values set in the energy manager.

The maximum available charging current can also be reduced by other consumers in the home network, e.g. by an electric heater or water heater.
The charging power must never be set higher than the maximum available power of the electrical circuit used. If you are unsure about this, contact a qualified electrician.
I currently have a 40amp circuit in the garage, so I assume this means that I can set it for 32amps to provide that safety buffer people mentioned. Is that correct?

I have a charger I got for my son's Bolt, which is on the 40amp circuit providing 32amp output and can always use that, but I like the features of the Connect and hope to use that.
 
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daveo4EV

daveo4EV

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@Reg you are correct a 40 amp breaker can sustain a 32 AMP EVSE charge rate.

EVSE's are considered continuous load devices (maximum current draw for 2 or 3 hours) - therefore for "continous load" devices you derate the breaker by 20%

60 amp - 48 amp charge rate
50 amp - 40 amp charge rate
40 amp - 32 amp charge rate
30 amp - 24 amp charge rate
20 amp - 16 amp charge rate

devices that run for less than 2 hours - like my steam unit in my home shower - can run at their full breaker/wire rating - since it will never run for more than 2 hours on continuous maximum load - the use case is not two hours, and the electronics in the device enforce the device "cycling" and not ever pulling max current for more than 2 hours - therefore it's allowed to use the maximum current it's rated for

EVSE's/EV-chargers are unique in home appliances in that they are one of the few devices than can literally sit there and pull max volt*current continuously with no break what so ever - 12 hours to fully charge an EV battery at maximum Current draw stresses the breakers/wire so for safety they are derated by 20% - even air conditioners/ovens/stoves/water-heaters don't pull maximum current for 2 or 3 hours or more, they cycle on/off but never pull maximum current continuously with no break.

if a home appliance can run for more than 2 or 3 hours at maximum current draw -it's required to increase it's required breaker to met the 20% derating rule - for example a device that requires 5760 watts (5.76 kw) - which is 240 volts @ 24 amps - will require a 30 amp breaker/wire _IF_ said device will ever pull maximum current for more than 2 hours…

don't overload your breakers/wires/plugs people - it's a serious and legitimate fire hazard - the best case scenario is that the breaker trips and keep tripping, but if the breaker fails things will melt and potentially catch fire.
 
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daveo4EV

daveo4EV

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you may find these threads useful for EV charging…


EV Charger math - how fast and how long?
https://rennlist.com/forums/taycan-and-mission-e/1127670-ev-charger-math-how-fast-and-how-long.html

Another post from other forums that's been well received - again some of you have this nailed and fully understood - others might find this illuminating - and it's basic EV knowledge to understand how volts/amp and EV chargers translate to battery charging duration math…

nothing in this post is unique or insightful, but it's all in one place instead of being spread out as morsels of information inside other EV related threads…

EV batteries are measured in kWH (Kilowatt hours) or 1000 watt-hours - a watt hour is a unit of measure of 1000 watts of a electricity for 1 continuous hour. The Taycan will come with a 90,000 watt-hour battery - or 90 kWh battery. Charging a Taycan battery from empty requires 90,000 watt-hours - or 90 kilo-watt-hours (kWh)

How do I calculate watts?

Turns out the math is simple: you need to know 2 factors about your electrical supply (or charger).

Volts
AMPs

watts = Volts * AMPS
watt-hours = (Volts * AMPS) & time

In the US electrical circuits are typically either 120v - 120 volts or 240 volts. 120 Volts are a typical wall plug in your home or kitchen or room, most home appliances are 120 volt devices, and 240 volts are typically: ovens, electrical water heaters, electric dryers, air conditioners, hot tubs

in the US volts vary for 120 volt from 100-130 volts, and 240 volts vary from 200 to 250 volts - it all depends on your electrical provider, your houses main panel, time of day, overall load on the grid and so on and so forth). For purposes of this posting we're going to use 120 volts and 240 volts which is the "ideal" goal of the US electrical system - your actual watts will vary based on your actual home supply characteristics. If you can measure your home's voltage you can adjust the math below to actual volts and the watt calculations will change slightly.

Electrical Circuits are installed in panels with am AMP rating for different voltages (120 or 240). Typically breakers are rated at peak/temporary load, and continuous load. For continuous load you have to de-rate the breaker by 20% - so a 10 AMP breaker is only rated to deliver 8 AMPs of continuous load. Loading a breaker at more than 80% of it's rating continuously is not recommended and can cause problems (fire and death)

Charging an EV is considered continuous load (any load for more than 3 hours) so the 80% rule is in effect.

so let's figure out how do we calculate charging time for a given charger for a Taycan.

Typical home Plug - 120 volts on a 15 AMP circuit - derate by 20% - 12 amp continuous load
120 volts * 12 AMPs = 1440 watts or 1.44 kw - do this for one hour at you get 1.44 kilowatt hours

charge the Taycan from empty with this charging rate and you divide 90 kWh / 1.44 kW = 62.5 hours - that's best case and there is about a 10% loss with the chargers so 62.5 * 1.1 = 68.75 hours - we add a 10% fudge factor to deal with various in-efficiencies in the whole charging infrastructure.

so it will take 68-72 hours to fully charge an empty Taycan from a normal house hold plug @ 12 amps on a typical home 15 AMP circuit.

some homes/garages have 120 volt / 20 AMP circuits - these are typically used for engine block heaters and use a different plug from the normal household plug - 20 amps * 80% - 16 amp continuous load (these plugs are called NEMA 5-20, normal household plugs are NEMA 5-15)

120 volts * 16 amps = 1920 watts or 1.92 kilowatts

90 kwh / 1.92 kw = 46.875 hours * 10% fudge factor = 51.5625 hours or about 52-56 hours to charge from a home 120/20 amp circuit

as you can see 120 volt house hold circuits really don't do the job - to properly charge an EV you typically want to use a 240 volt circuit. To do this there are lots and lots of choices for various EV charges are all sorts of different AMP Ratings. Typically you want to buy an EV charger who's maximum AMP rating matches or exceeds your EV car's charging capability (Taycan should be at least 40 amps or more - I"m hoping for 72 or 80 amps for the L2 charger onboard the Taycan)

The Taycan should be able to handle at least a 40 AMP circuit, with a 32 AMP continuous draw. So any EV charger up to 40 AMPS will charge your Taycan much faster than your typical 120 volt house hold circuit. Typical 240 volt breakers are: 16 AMP, 24 AMP, 30 AMP, 32 AMP, 40 AMP, 50 AMP, and in increments of 10 AMPS up to 200 AMP circuits (typically a 200 AMP breaker is on most homes for the entire house, most US homes have 80, 100, 125, 150, 200, 400 AMP main whole-house breakers)

Math for charging at 240 volts for various AMPS are:

15 AMP 240 volt breaker - 240 volts * 12 AMPS = 2.88 kw
20 AMP 240 volt breaker - 240 volts * 16 AMPS = 3.84 kw
30 AMP 240 volt breaker - 240 volts * 24 AMPS = 5.76 kw
40 AMP 240 volt breaker - 240 volts * 32 AMPS = 7.68 kw
50 AMP 240 volt breaker - 240 volts * 40 AMPS = 9.6 kw

Typical public chargers on the West coast from Chargepoint network are 208 volts at 30 amps charge rate or 6.2 kW.

Charging times will be less for actual daily usage since most people only drive 40-60 miles a day - you can do the math for kWh usage - at 3.4 miles per kWh for the Taycan - typical 60 mile/day usage = 18'ish kWh to recharge at the end of the day

to estimate your daily charging duration - you can approximate your kWh usage by:

daily_miles / 3.4 = estimated_kWh consumed

estimated_charge_time_hours = (estimated_kWh / charge_rate_kw) * 1.1 - and round up

DC Fast Charging is another whole ball of wax - and the typical math there is 400/800 volts * some number of AMPS - the wattage ranges from 24,000 watts (charge point) to 50,000 watts (evGO), 150,000 watts and and some DCFast chargers as high as 350,000 watts. The math is a little complicated because you can not charge the battery at the same rate during the entire charge cycle, the closer to full the battery is the slower the charge, you can only pump maximum wattage into the battery when it's close to empty.

But if you're planing to buy a Taycan or any EV understanding the charger math and your battery size will allow you to make an informed decision regarding how big of a charger you can install in your garage to make your daily charging needs a simple and painless process. I would size any charger you plan to install to allow you to fully charger the car in an 8 hour "off-peak" electricity billing Time-Of-Use rate window. In Northern California PG&E has an EV charging rate where off-peak rates of $0.1275/kWh are between 11 pm and 7 am (8 hours)

charging a 90 kWh battery in 8 hours requires a charge rate of at least 11,250 watts (or about 48 amps which would be a 60 amp breaker). Now again most daily usage is well below the full battery capacity and most daily usage should be less than 20 kWh - but using the 8 hour time window as a yard stick and sizing your charger to "fit" into that window for a full charge means you can minimized your charging costs in a TOU rate window even on high demand days where you nearly exhaust your battery, and it means the car will charge faster for the light duty days meaning turn around time from plugging it in until it's done is also minimized.

I hope you've found this posting useful and I _KNOW_ the internet will correct any mistakes (people on forums are ruthless that way).

Knowing your you kWh usage also lets you estimate cost to charge your Taycan - and your cost per-mile.

We know the Taycan will have a 90 kWh battery.
We also know the Taycan should go 310 miles according to Porsche
to go 310 miles with 90 kWh - that means the ideal/EPA/rated consumption for the Taycan is about 3.4 miles per kWh - or 294 watt-hours (wh) per mile.

If you're electricity rate is $0.1254 per kWh (the PG&E EV off-peak rate in Northern California)

1 kWh cost $0.1275

$0.1275 / 3.4 miles = $0.0375 per mile driven in electricity cost

let's compare that to a 28 mpg Panamera at $3.75/gallon for gasoline

$3.75 / 28 = $0.1339 per mile driven

so the Taycan is about 3.57 times cheaper per-mile to "fuel" at PG&E off-peak rates per mile driven.

A daily drive of 60 miles would be about 18 kWh = 18 * $0.1275 = $2.295 /day for a 60 mile round trip commute

vs the gas car for 60 miles at 28 mpg = 2.1428 gallons * $3.75 = $8 /day for a 60 mile round trip commute

now your actual kWh on your meter to charge the Taycan will be about 5 to 10% more than the kWh consumed to charge the battery - so add 10% overhead to your electrical usage while charging the car to slightly adjust your per-mile chargers higher for actual kWh consumed for charging the car, but still way cheaper than a gas car for the same miles driven.

If you look up your local utility bill and your kWh cost, you can very accurately estimate your electricity bill based on daily/weekly/monthly miles driven and compare it to your current gasoline bill to see what makes sense for you.

efficiency for EV are very very very sensitive to driving style and speed (faster speeds are deeply expensive efficiency wise) - so the 3.4 miles/kWh is an ideal consumption rate for "typical" usage - I would suggest your range of efficiency for the Taycan will vary from 2.5 miles/kWh to 4.5 miles/kWh depending on speed, climate, driving style, acceleration - even at 2.5 miles/kWh EV's compare favorably to gas cars, but EV's are also tempting to accelerate from stop lights - using the Taycan's ample acceleration will NOT achieve 3.4 miles/kWh and you'll learn to optimize efficiency when it matters, and have fun when you want to....

after over 180,000 miles driven in various EV's I can safely state I routinely do about 3 miles/kWh and don't alter my driving style that much - I can do much better, and much worse, but overall I'm in the 2.8-3.2 miles/kWh range and simply drive the way I want to drive.

3 miles/kWh is a good "rule of thumb" for estimating EV range and consumption and will put you in the ball park for estimating costs and kWh impact on your monthly electrical bill...

once you get an EV and start thinking in terms of kWh - it also becomes very evident there is a natural synergy with grid-tied solar systems which produce kWh during the day for you to consume at night while charging your EV - an ample solar system will easily cover your EV kWh daily usage and you can cover both your home and personal transportation needs with a roof top solar system on your home…it's gets kinda cool when you're charging your Taycan from sunlight falling on your roof and your electricity bill is near zero…but that's another post.





Charging: Existing Tesla/EV/Porsche Customers - Future Taycan Owners
https://rennlist.com/forums/taycan-...v-porsche-customers-future-taycan-owners.html

If you have an existing Tesla charging install that you are super happy with - and you are wondering if you can charge your Taycan using your existing Tesla chargers (both Wall Charger and Mobile Charger) - the answer is _YES_!!!

You only need to purchase the following adapter - and your Taycan can/will happily charge from your existing Tesla charging system

https://shop.quickchargepower.com/JDapter-Stub-40-Amp-Tesla-Charge-Station-Adaptor-JDPTRSTB.htm

Porsche Taycan Amperage usage control considerations for home charger 792312474_9081a692ae2d26d7bcb12e03ab73a14e8dc897f0


Basically this adapter coverts any Tesla L2 to a standard J-1772 plug - enabling your Tesla chargers to charge _ANY_ J-1772 EV (like the Taycan, but also Bolt, Cayenne Hybrid, Panamera eHybrid, Leaf, Mercedes, etc…)

This will allow you to integrate your Taycan into your existing EV garage and not have to switch between Tesla and standard J-1772 chargers.

I have tested my Dealer's demo Taycan using my home Tesla 100 amp charger via a jDapter - and the Taycan happily charged at it's full 40 amp charging rate @ 9.6 kW from my Tesla Wall Chargers - see picture below - the green light in the upper right shows the Taycan is charging, and the charger it's charging from is a Tesla Wall Charger!

Porsche Taycan Amperage usage control considerations for home charger 94b7a9086_2ec9dc75eb8ba2417236b45fabdb137795803eb2


Now I realize the Taycan comes with an excellent EVSE J-1772 charger included with the car - and I'm not suggesting you "NEED" this adapter, but for those who are customers of both companies a simple $239 adapter will enable you to Charge your Taycan at home and at _ANY_ Tesla L2 charger you may encounter in the wild.

Why is this simple adapter $239 - it seems expensive - and I agree 100%, but the best answer I've received so far is that the industry standard J-1772 plug is both a patented and licensed design item, and there are some minimum fees charged by the Patent/License holders that increase the cost of this simple connect by quite a bit - so we're kinda stuck (the J-1772 plug-alone with no labor parts is $65 on eBay for example)

I highly recommend this adapter for any serous EV road warrior because it effectively doubles your ability to use public chargers in the wild since you can now charge your EV/Taycan with standard J-1772 public chargers and also Tesla L2 chargers installed at businesses nationwide. See the link below for an overview of Tesla Destination Charging (L2) chargers installed nationwide! In the picture I've included below - all those "black" pins in the map are Tesla L2 chargers installed at businesses, hotels, golf courses, wineries, malls, etc…and if you have one of these Adapter in the frunk of your Taycan you can use these chargers also with permission of the business owner where the charger is installed.

Tesla Desintation chargers are normal L2 20-80 amp chargers installed/available at businesses - and mirrors the Porsche Charging Service for L2 chargers are destinations where people go.

Porsche Taycan Amperage usage control considerations for home charger _37_12_pm_774b5cafbf06cc5b94a4f30c7b6ae93f9d465183


There is no "network" and there is no membership required, and there is typically no billing - use of the chargers are at the descretion of the business owner where the charger is installed. All you need to use one of these L2 charger is a car that can plug-in - and the jDapter is the adapter that will let your J-1772 Taycan plug into _ANY_ Tesla L2 charger.

This adapter will NOT allow you to use the Tesla Supercharger network - sorry!

I have carried this adapter in my Bolt's for years and I use it both at home and while on the road - many times at hotels/business that may in some circumstances only have Tesla L2 chargers on site!

It's a must have for any serious EV owner in my opinion given the proliferation of Tesla L2 chargers over the past 8 years and is cheap insurance if you plan to drive around with your Taycan and want the maximum opportunity to charge your Taycan where ever you may find a charger (Tesla or otherwise).

https://www.tesla.com/findus?bounds=58.187042720255945,-89.06853315875554,7.61104618126224,-154.63493940875554&zoom=5&filters=destination charger

Porsche Taycan Amperage usage control considerations for home charger _19_03_pm_c5de11b29154033af8b82445726d69d10bf0f33b


I'm happy to answer questions via PM or in this thread - but the simple answer is you can use Tesla L2 chargers if you purchase this adapter and being a long time EV owner I can assert this is a good thing to have access to more chargers when ever you can find them!

For existing Tesla owners this will preserve any existing Tesla charging infrastructure you may have installed and not require you to swap out for new charging hardware just because the Taycan uses a standard J-1772 plug.





Charging Opinions from a long time EV owner
https://rennlist.com/forums/taycan-...rging-opinions-from-a-long-time-ev-owner.html

Updated and hacked given the facts around the Taycan - 9/28/2019

Legend
Blue text is new text
Grey text is still valid comments, but probably not required/appropriate for the Taycan - but would still be functional
I've made liberal use of strike through for sections that while I consider them informative are probably un-necessary - they are left in this document for completeness

Hello all,

I've been driving EV's for about 7 years (Ford Focus EV, Tesla Model S, Tesla Model X, Bolt and Leaf). Over that time I've developed my opinions about charging and I'm going to share them here for all to see and learn - LOL

1st off kudos to Porsche on this car - but after coming from Tesla I found the charging information/situation with Porsche to be lacking.

The most affordable mobile charger in my opinion is a Gen-2 Tesla Universal Mobile Charger (UMC - $320). Carry one of these babies in your EV and you can charge _ANYWHERE_ - it’s a very reasonable 32 amp charger for it’s price in that you can use virtually any AC plug you run into. (It’s unclear what mobile EVSE/charger Porsche will include if any with the car - this advice will be subject to actual what’s included with the car - if Porsche includes a flexible mobile charger with the car with 32 or 40 amp charge rate then this advice can be safely ignored).

https://shop.tesla.com/us/en/product...or-bundle.html

Quote:
Currently Porsche in North America is "including/mandating" the purchase of an $1120 40 AMP charger. I have no doubt as to the quality of this charger and currently there is no option to exclude it. The Porsche charger also seems to include optional plug adapter/cables for various NEMA plugs you will find during your travels. At 40 AMPs with a NEMA 14-50 plug being the default this charger will be great for charging your brand new Taycan! I will note it's literally 4x the cost of competing mobile chargers and it's hard for me to believe there is a 4x quality difference, but since it's not an optional purchase you can rest assured included in your dealer invoice is everything you need to charger your Porsche on the road and at home. The only reason to purchase an additional charger would be to avoid the hassle of unpacking/packing the charger as your travel plans dictate.
Spoiler


If you chose to go with the Tesla UMC you MUST purchase a JDapter ($239) or TeslaTap ($239)

https://shop.quickchargepower.com/JD...r-JDPTRSTB.htm
http://www.umc-j1772.com/index.php?r...&product_id=50

This adapter converts the Tesla UMC connector to a standard J-1772 EV charging connector - it allows _ANY_ J-1772 EV to charge from a Tesla L2 charger (NOT superchargers). For those of you that don’t know Tesla supports what they call a Tesla Destination charging network (chargers installed with Tesla’s assistance at various locations all over North America - these chargers vary in Amperage from 20-80 AMP’s and are typically free if you are a customer of the associated business).

Even if you do not plan to use a Tesla charger for your mobile or home charging situation - this adapter is highly recommended by me for EV road warriors as it will "force multiply" the number of L2 chargers you will have access to while traveling. With this adapter in the car you can charge at any public J-1772 charger AND any Tesla Destination chargers you happen to encounter! So more choice for L2 charging - win win!

For existing owners of Teslas (I know you're out there) that have existing Tesla charger at home this Adapter will let you Taycan charge from your existing Tesla UMC and/or Wall charger - so you do not need to buy a new charger for the Taycan.

The link below is an interactive map of all the Tesla L2 Destination chargers - if you have the $239 adapter you can use these charging locations (with permission) in addition to normal J-1772 chargers - so you great expand your potential charging solutions if you have this adapter.

https://www.tesla.com/findus#/bounds...arger&name=usa

You do not need a “membership/account” with Tesla for use of these chargers, usage is at the discretion of the associated business owners - NOT Tesla. Many of these business have both J-1772 and Tesla chargers on site, and carrying this adapter simply offers you the choice of using a Tesla charger if all the J-1772 chargers are occupied - most business owners won’t care. In some rare cases some businesses have ONLY Tesla chargers and this adapter would let you charge your EV should you encounter this situation. Other forums have had extensive discussion on this topic and I believe it is well established that this adapter is a MUST have for any serous EV road warrior, even _IF_ you do not plan to use a Gen-2 Tesla UMC for your home charging solution.

Home charging this topic has been discussed ad nausea on the Tesla/EV forums it comes down to these basic choices.
  1. some people don't feel they need one and opt for public/work based chargers - I applaud these people's sprit and they honestly believe this works for them. I'm too much of a control freak to go this route and want to know I can charge my car at a reasonable rate on my own terms.
  2. Install a NEMA 14-50 plug in their garage - and this gives you many options as you can buy many many chargers and install them by simply plugging them in.
  3. some people have two (2) Tesla UMC's with them - one in car , and one that lives in the garage plugged into the NEMA 14-50 plug or what ever plug they decide to install.
  4. some people have one (1) UMC - and their's lives in their garage and they only take it out of the garage when "traveling"
  5. Many people opt for the Tesla Wall connector - see link below- the reason for this is safety (hard wired) and configurability - it can be configured to provide 16-80 amps with appropriate circuitry - making it one of the most flexible EV chargers on the market for a fair price ($500) - of course you'll need a JDapter/TeslaTap to use it.
  6. My personal recommendation for home charging is to go with either: Tesla Wall connector + Adatper, Clipper creek, JuiceBox, or ChargePoint. The clipper creek chargers are bullet proof and have a wide wide range of charging options (12 amp to 100 amp J-1772 chargers)
Porsche Home Charging Dock - which seems to be a super nice wall mounted "dock" to mount the Porsche mobile charger in - this is a nice bit of "kit" that will polish your home charging install but still let you "undock" the charger and take it with you. As with everything Porsche charges too much for this item, but I foresee zero quality issues with it.Tesla Wall Connector - https://shop.tesla.com/us/en/product...connector.html
Gen-2 Tesla UMC - https://shop.tesla.com/us/en/product...or-bundle.html
ClipperCreek - https://store.clippercreek.com/hcs-5...category_id=69

Advice on the install:

To be clear all you need to charge the Taycan at home is a NEMA 14-50 plug - this is 240 volt 50 amp circuit (allowing a 40 am charge rate matching the maximum 9.6 kW L2 charge rate supported by the Taycan). Any more planing or equipment would simply be in anticipation of your future status as a multi-ev household, but offer no benefit for your immediate situation w/Taycan - read on if your interested spending slightly more $$ but making your life slightly easier for your future multi-ev household…
Quote:
  1. Install the biggest charger you can handle - this EV will not be your last EV, so plan for the future and only buy one of these suckers once. The J-1772 standard covers up 80 amps, and when the charger can provide more power than the car can pull, the car only pulls what it needs.
  2. the real cost is the labor, wiring, and main panel modifications - not the actual charger. Cost vary based on how full your panel is, the distance to the charging location, and if you need to upgrade your main panel to have a larger service breaker
  3. even with a small breaker - pull the biggest AMP wire you can to the charging location - that way if you can upgrade in the future, you only have to swap the breaker in the panel, and the charger at the other end - and not pull wire again (normally costly) - long runs of high-AMP copper wire are expensive - so be prepared.
I personally have been running a 3 charger 100 amp circuit setup with Tesla/Bolt/Leaf for the past year (and JDapter's)- it works great - I plug 3 cars in - and they all share the single 100 amp circuit during off peak charging window (80 amp charge rate).
The Tesla Wall Charger ($500) has two advantages that push it over the top IMHO…

https://shop.tesla.com/us/en/product...connector.html
it's configurable - you can set the feed breaker's AMP setting, and the charger will tell the car the max AMP's it can feed, that means you can buy one wall charger, and over time adjust it to what ever AMP's you are feeding it making it the most cost effective chargers out there for the widest range of possible charging rates… it can load-share a single circuit breaker - splitting the load to charge up to 4 EV's at once (1 master and up to 3 slaves configured by dip-switches in the charger) - and 2-4 chargers will SHARE a single circuit breaker and adjust the AMP load based on demand from the car's being charged (this is part of the J-1772 standard). So you can install one circuit, one wall charger, and in the future "add" another Wall charger and charge 2, 3, or 4 electric cars off one (1) electrical circuit - for the future multi-EV household I consider this a killer feature and is why I give the nod to the Tesla Wall Connector for $500. So for me the ideal charging scenario for an EV Owner is:
  1. Gen-2 Tesla UMC in the trunk with many adapters for all plugs - https://shop.tesla.com/us/en/product...-adapters.html
  2. Tesla Wall connector in the garage configured to match the maximum AMP's my home electrical panel can handle (plus Adapter)
  3. JDapter/TeslaTap in the car for charging using Tesla destination chargers while out and about on trips
  4. Some extension cords to help reach plugs while traveling if necessary
I also recommend the following items from amazon for the road warrior charging master:
  1. high quality 20 amp extension cord - https://smile.amazon.com/AC-Connecto...nsion+cordnema
  2. short adapter that let you plug the 20 amp extension cord into a normal 15 amp plug - https://smile.amazon.com/AC-Connecto...o+5-20+adapter
  3. NEMA 14-50 extension cord - heavy and expensive, but a life saver sometimes when you just can't reach that juicy, ever so fast, 40 amp 240 volt plug that is just out of reach… https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-Exten...extension+cord
congrats everyone on your EV! I love mine and I know you'll love yours - these recommendation are investments in my opinion and modified Tesla's chargers will serve you well for _ANY_ EV you currently own or likely will own in the future.

Terminology

J-1772 - http://www.letmegooglethat.com/?q=J-1772
NEMA 14-50 - http://www.letmegooglethat.com/?q=NEMA+14-50
Electric AMPS http://www.letmegooglethat.com/?q=Electrical+AMPS
Volts - http://www.letmegooglethat.com/?q=Electrical+Volts

I'm happy to answer questions.
 
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Reg

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@Reg you are correct a 40 amp breaker can sustain a 32 AMP EVSE charge rate.
my poorly worded comment was different.

I am assuming from that description that I can use the mobile connect on my 40 amp circuit by telling the charger not to use more than 32 amps.

Is that correct?
 
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@Reg - you are correct - if you some how manage to plug the Porsche EVSE into your 40 amp circuit you should adjust the unit or the car to only pull 32 amps…I don't yet have a Taycan so I don't know how this is done

on my Tesla's you can adjust the maximum amps from the big screen while the car is charging - so you can "override" the default amperage and adjust the car to use fewer amps if you know you're plugged into lesser rated circuit.
 

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Does anyone know if you can set the Taycan to charge at specific times?

Use case: non Porsche charger at home. Get home from work, plug it in, BUT don't have the charging start until 9pm since that is when electricity is cheapest.

Thanks
 


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Great information here thank you daveo4EV Don't forget the Gauge of the wire from the fuse box to the plug is very important too and most home Dryer plugs are not wired with 6 guage wire

I have both my home EV chargers wired with 6 Gauge
 

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Interesting thread. Is there regional differences in how breakers/fuses are rated? In Finland they are rated for continuous load. So for example I have in my garage a 11kw charging station installed already for the Taycan which is tapped into 3 x 16A and that is protected by 3x 16A fuses. Based on everything I've read, and I've read quite a bit about this, the setup should be solid for continuous charge. Fuses / breakers, at least over here, are supposed to handle the rated load continuously. They can handle more load actually, but only for a short period.

When we are talking about the whole circuit that is a different story. In my home the entire circuit is 3x 64A and the main fuses are 3x 35A. As with the fuses for specific use cases, the main fuses will be able to handle their rating (3x 35A) continuously. And that is significantly lower than what the whole circuit could handle (if it had larger main fuses). Perhaps the whole circuit couldn't handle 3x 64A continuously, but that is irrelevant for my setup as the total load for my house should be below the 3x 35A main fuses.

At least over here any article you read about EV charging the focus is on the cord and the electrical outlet. If you're plugging directly into an unsuitable outlet and taking more juice than the outlet/cord can handle, it can all melt down easily and cause a fire. Also even in this setup I have, the one thing that is warned about is the route of the cord from the main fuse box to the charging station, as apparently in some cases it could be routed incorrectly via some heating elements in the roof which would be a significant fire hazard. I verified that in my case the cord is installed correctly and is a proper cord for a 3x 16A outlet so shouldn't be any issue.

I have not literally read a single EV charging article over here that says anything about issues regarding breakers/fuses/circuit (other than discussions about if 3x25A main fuses are enough, and at least in my case they aren't, so I upgraded to 3x35A). It's all about the outlets/cords. I tried hard to find some info on this "breaker continuous load" issue but all I found is confirmation that fuses/breakers are rated for continuous load. And at least when it comes to fuses you can overload them a bit temporarily, not sure if breakers can be overloaded at all.
 
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Interesting thread. Is there regional differences in how breakers/fuses are rated? In Finland they are rated for continuous load. So for example I have in my garage a 11kw charging station installed already for the Taycan which is tapped into 3 x 16A and that is protected by 3x 16A fuses. Based on everything I've read, and I've read quite a bit about this, the setup should be solid for continuous charge. Fuses / breakers, at least over here, are supposed to handle the rated load continuously. They can handle more load actually, but only for a short period.

When we are talking about the whole circuit that is a different story. In my home the entire circuit is 3x 64A and the main fuses are 3x 35A. As with the fuses for specific use cases, the main fuses will be able to handle their rating (3x 35A) continuously. And that is significantly lower than what the whole circuit could handle (if it had larger main fuses). Perhaps the whole circuit couldn't handle 3x 64A continuously, but that is irrelevant for my setup as the total load for my house should be below the 3x 35A main fuses.

At least over here any article you read about EV charging the focus is on the cord and the electrical outlet. If you're plugging directly into an unsuitable outlet and taking more juice than the outlet/cord can handle, it can all melt down easily and cause a fire. Also even in this setup I have, the one thing that is warned about is the route of the cord from the main fuse box to the charging station, as apparently in some cases it could be routed incorrectly via some heating elements in the roof which would be a significant fire hazard. I verified that in my case the cord is installed correctly and is a proper cord for a 3x 16A outlet so shouldn't be any issue.

I have not literally read a single EV charging article over here that says anything about issues regarding breakers/fuses/circuit (other than discussions about if 3x25A main fuses are enough, and at least in my case they aren't, so I upgraded to 3x35A). It's all about the outlets/cords. I tried hard to find some info on this "breaker continuous load" issue but all I found is confirmation that fuses/breakers are rated for continuous load. And at least when it comes to fuses you can overload them a bit temporarily, not sure if breakers can be overloaded at all.
yes my apologies my experience is purely with general North American residential building codes - and the 80% rule comes from those standards - I have very little insight with regards to anything outside North America.
 
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Nothing like that in europe
We uses the standard IEC 60364, and the circuits are ratet for 100% use. I am not 100% every country uses the standard, but most of us are.
Sponsored

 
 




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