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enginerdify

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Hi @enginerdify I bought a set from VividRacing. The short links are for the front and longer one to fit on the rear right?

I tried to install the short link to the front but the rod end ball bearing's direction is completely wrong. The way VividRacing link set up is Front long links and Rear short links.

I don't think its correct.

截圖 2022-03-14 下午2.15.32.png
@ct-andy from the stock to modded links, the front get longer and the rears shorter than the stock. The 90° ball end ones are definitely for the rear, but in either case, you should be able to turn the ball ends however you like. What are the current lengths of each as shipped by vivid?
 

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@ct-andy from the stock to modded links, the front get longer and the rears shorter than the stock. The 90° ball end ones are definitely for the rear, but in either case, you should be able to turn the ball ends however you like. What are the current lengths of each as shipped by vivid?
@enginerdify Thanks for the reply!
Measurement for vivid links
short 10cm
long 11cm

I was told from Vivid short one fit on the front. But it will not fit because it has a 90° ball end on the short link.
So i am very confused with vivid set up
Porsche Taycan Cross Turismo Lowered + Spacers 截圖 2022-03-15 上午9.22.11
 

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@enginerdify Thanks for the reply!
Measurement for vivid links
short 10cm
long 11cm

I was told from Vivid short one fit on the front. But it will not fit because it has a 90° ball end on the short link.
So i am very confused with vivid set up
@ct-andy You will need to setup the link lengths and align the balls yourself. I found the Vivid links weren't assembled properly for a direct fitment and the lengths were set for a very minimal drop.

Use the OPs table in his first post for setting up the link lengths. Measurements are center of ball to center of ball, not end to end. An adjustable wrench on the ball will hold it in place when you tighten the jam nut. The threaded rods are also pretty long so you may need to remove them and cut them shorter to achieve the link length you desire.

Yes, unfortunately, not really plug and play. I wouldn't have bought the Vivid links if given another chance.
 

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Yes, unfortunately, not really plug and play. I wouldn't have bought the Vivid links if given another chance.
definitely!Very poor Q/C before shipping. Group buy 4 sets and one of the set came with 4 long links only.

highly NOT recommended to buy VividRacing links!

I am still waiting for vivid's reply
 

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nice writeup, but remember to use your brakes after washing... See they become rusty.
 


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Thank you to @enginerdify for posting all of the data from your trials! This saved many of us countless "wheel off wheel on" drills!
With the data you posted, I was able to 3D print a set of lowering link based off of a Tesla design which was posted on Thingiverse by balroghuzz.

Used your sedan+ lengths, ride is acceptable at the lowest level.
Thank you again.

A few photos:

Porsche Taycan Cross Turismo Lowered + Spacers IMG_0269.JPG


Porsche Taycan Cross Turismo Lowered + Spacers IMG_0268.JPG


Porsche Taycan Cross Turismo Lowered + Spacers IMG_0274


Porsche Taycan Cross Turismo Lowered + Spacers IMG_0275
 

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Does anyone know if these same measurements apply to a 4S vs. Cross Turismo?? I now the stock height is different on both vehicles. Just want to know where to adjust mine down to.
 


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enginerdify

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Does anyone know if these same measurements apply to a 4S vs. Cross Turismo?? I now the stock height is different on both vehicles. Just want to know where to adjust mine down to.
The CT is higher by default. I suspect there are similar threads for the sedan models with specific heights for them.
 

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After reading this thread I was curious about a few things.

1) If the original links are heated to facilitate removal, does this compromise the links in a way that would preclude them from being used to return the car to stock height. The factory links probably have an operating temperature range specification. If the upper range was not exceeded to remove the link it would probably be okay to reuse.

2) Are the ball studs on the sensor and suspension side bracket plastic or metal? If plastic, is there a risk of marring the balls with the internal spring clip (not the external locking clip) that holds the aftermarket metal socket in place?

3) The plastic factory links are probably self-lubricating and the relatively small diameter of the hole in the mouth of the socket compared to the diameter of the ball is probably designed to minimize the amount of road dirt that enters the socket. Is it necessary to lubricate the aftermarket links occasionally in order to prevent premature wear? If the ball studs are plastic, some lubricants may not be compatible.

4) How does the inner diameter tolerance of the socket in the factory link compare to the tolerance for the aftermarket ball socket?
 
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LongLive959

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@Nachyomama - I have had Teslas for 5 years before this and always either ordered new wheels with proper flush offset or added spacers and never really had any issues with range effect. There is most likely some small effect on aero and thus range, as there is a place for air to mix along the side of the car with a flush mount, but I have only noticed a real difference with wheel size itself - say 19s to 21s - but negligible either way with spacing.
do you have rws? If so, any issue with rubbing the rears with the spacers? Thanks
 
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enginerdify

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do you have rws? If so, any issue with rubbing the rears with the spacers? Thanks
Yes I have rear wheel steering. No issues at all. I run Autocross with the local PCA club on lowest setting and sport plus and have no issues.
 
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enginerdify

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After reading this thread I was curious about a few things.

1) If the original links are heated to facilitate removal, does this compromise the links in a way that would preclude them from being used to return the car to stock height. The factory links probably have an operating temperature range specification. If the upper range was not exceeded to remove the link it would probably be okay to reuse.

2) Are the ball studs on the sensor and suspension side bracket plastic or metal? If plastic, is there a risk of marring the balls with the internal spring clip (not the external locking clip) that holds the aftermarket metal socket in place?

3) The plastic factory links are probably self-lubricating and the relatively small diameter of the hole in the mouth of the socket compared to the diameter of the ball is probably designed to minimize the amount of road dirt that enters the socket. Is it necessary to lubricate the aftermarket links occasionally in order to prevent premature wear? If the ball studs are plastic, some lubricants may not be compatible.

4) How does the inner diameter tolerance of the socket in the factory link compare to the tolerance for the aftermarket ball socket?
1) The heat is just to soften them temporarily. It is not enough heat to damage the plastic. Think in the same way you put a jar under warm water to open a stuck lid. It’s just a bit of thermal pliability.
2) Ball studs on the car are metal and lubricated.
3) I have never needed to / felt the need to lubricate the links in the 2+ years I have had them on my car. They are not weight bearing or structural at all…just a link between points to drive a sensor. My thought is unless I notice the ride adjustment doing weird things, they are probably still doing their job solidly. Also, the sockets are pretty tight to the balls just like the plastic ones.
4) I have not measure this precisely but both sockets (metal ball and plastic stock) fit relatively the same snugness to me.
 

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Yes I have rear wheel steering. No issues at all. I run Autocross with the local PCA club on lowest setting and sport plus and have no issues.
Perfect thanks. Picking up my CT next week. Spacers and lowering are first in the agenda! I will use your set up of 15/18mm…looks like the sweet spot
 

LongLive959

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Yes I have rear wheel steering. No issues at all. I run Autocross with the local PCA club on lowest setting and sport plus and have no issues.
any issue with lowering? I asked my dealer if they’d be willing to swap the CT links for those on the sedan/GTS to get the same 10mm drop. They went as far as speaking with parts and quoting. But parts/service advised not to because of the level sensors causing possible faults etc.

I know you’ve used third party links. What about the level sensor? Unnecessary? Any faults? I’m just being overly cautious because I don’t want to get stuck with any potential warranty issues. Thanks! :like:
Sponsored

 
 




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