There are numerous threads that discuss this with examples on the Forum - try Searching. For ref., here is one such:Anyone tried lowering links on their CT? I am curious if the oem links from the Taycan sedan are shorter than the oem CT. If so, could possibly reuse someone’s oem taycan takeoffs and get the sedan lower oem height. Thoughts?
Are there any warranty issues associated with changing the links?I have a set in the garage awaiting the arrival of my CT - will report back as early as next weekend if nobody beats me to the punch.
@Bry5on - a couple of Forum members have already installed both the Vivid Racing and the FVD links - I have seen the Vivid lowered car in person here in Houston and the FVD example is here somewhere (do a search and you'll find it).I have a set in the garage awaiting the arrival of my CT - will report back as early as next weekend if nobody beats me to the punch.
Looks good - thx for sharing - can you share some more detail on the install (assuming you did it yourself - any issues?) and did you adjust the links in any way or just use in the factory set ride height position they arrived in? Is the image of the car in the true lowest position or the next one up? Curious how stable they are in respect the adjustment locking in place - any concerns when you installed them about loosening over time?Installed the FVD links yesterday. In the low mode, I think it looks great!
Perfect - most appreciated - thx!Sure...lift the car in the highest mode and turn the wheels all the way to the right or left. You should have enough room to get to the factory links. The links are a bit challenging to get off, but if you twist and pull on them, you can feel them give and let go smoothly. You need to take the factory links and measure them with some calipers using millimeters. I started with 5mm in the front, but felt like i wanted a bit more rake. So I ended up with the front links longer by 7mm and then the rears are shortened by 5mm. No idea why the fronts need to be longer and the rears shortened to lower the vehicle but thats what the instructions say. I used a jack for the rear end, and after trying to twist my hands and wrists between all the control arms, finally decided to remove each wheel while working and that made it much easier to remove the oem link and secure the new link. Not a hard job, just take your time and watch your details (be sure to tight the jam nuts) once you have the links in place.
As for the photo, the car is in its lowest position. I guess if you are concerned with the jam nuts loosening over time, you could put a dab of blue loctite on there. I plan to check mine after a few hundred miles to se if anything loosens up.
FYI, I just brought my car in for service to diagnose and fix the interior wind buffeting noise and they told me that I had to remove the lowering links and wheel spacers to rule out the impact they were having on the car. They also blamed the many collision sensor activations I've been seeing on the fact that I've lowered the car. Hard to believe.Does this impact on warranty? My dealer suggested it would impact on the warranty and even if you did change them back the service department would know that the links had been installed via the diagnostic equipment and ride height information saved in the diagnostics.
Not sure how the computer would log a different height as the links fool the sensors into thinking that the vehicle is at the correct height. If the sensors thought the car was at an incorrect height, then you would think the car would log an error stating that.Does this impact on warranty? My dealer suggested it would impact on the warranty and even if you did change them back the service department would know that the links had been installed via the diagnostic equipment and ride height information saved in the diagnostics.