Retrofitting original sport chrono clock

alex_bell

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Hey folks. This weekends decided to retrofit sport chrono clock because my car came without it(and no sport chrono). I have that clock in my Panamera, so felt like something it missing, so here's short breakdown how I did it.

I bought used clock with backplate from local salvage yard for about $500, but I saw them also selling on eBay. I also made small wiring loom for 3 wires - Pos/Neg and LIN bus. You can use this PN 1C0973119B to get correct connector which will connect into clock, on eBay there are already with pins inside, or just add pins yourself.
Here's pinout of connector and how it looks
Porsche Taycan Retrofitting original sport chrono clock IMG_5103


Porsche Taycan Retrofitting original sport chrono clock IMG_5090


TO start I had to remove instrument cluster. To remove it you need to pop off plastic cover thats over IC and then unscrew 4 T20(or T25 dont remember) screws. Then IC simply pops off. Make sure car went to sleep so the screen isnt on anymore to prevent any damage when you disconnect it(it can take 5 mins to fully fall asleep sleep). Remove big connector first and then video signal


Porsche Taycan Retrofitting original sport chrono clock IMG_5100

Remove video cable and big connector. Now we need to wire our clock to this connector. At first - remove housing, that purple small clip that holds connector in housing, just push it up and it will pop off. Next step - we need to add pin #17. This is where one of LIN bus wires lives and this bus made specifically to feed data to clock. The connector has 4 labels marking position of pins. The pin for #17 located in corner, but in my case connector didnt have pin, so I had to add one. You can use crimping tool to make it, but I didnt have this small pins, so I just found old wiring loom from VW and pulled one of pins from that loom and it fit perfectly

Porsche Taycan Retrofitting original sport chrono clock IMG_5106


Next step - remove central speaker cover. Just use pry tool and pry it up. Remove speaker for some time, so it'd be easier to work.

At first I routed wires through hole near air vent channel, but I didnt like that I could see it when I'd put speaker cover back, so I drilled tiny hole behind air vent like 5mm diameter and routed wires there. Took a bit of back and forth, few wires to get it in a route I wanted, but eventually got it done

Last step - add power and ground. You can use any red wire on connector for +12v and any brown wire for ground. In my case I used PIN 31 for +12v and pin 30 for ground. Simply cut isolation off, soldered and put isolation tape back.

Now it's basically done. I insulated with same isolation tape as rest of the loom, so in my case it looks like its been factory made. Connect clock, connect instrument cluster(video signal first, then big connector) and turn car on. You should have your time reset, so go to PCM and set it again. The clock should synchronize with car time right away.

Basic clock feature does not need any coding and works right after connecting. In my case it worked right away. Clock arrow works well, backlight also works well(the one that lights up numbers). If you wan it to be a timer, you will need to code it to car, but I'll do that sometime later when I find reasonable priced steering wheel with mode selector and add full Chrono sport to car.

This is how it looks now

Porsche Taycan Retrofitting original sport chrono clock camphoto_684387517 2.JPG



I hope it will help someone to retrofit it too. It took me about 3-4 hours in total with few coffee breaks.

Recently I also replaced CCS1 to CCS2 ports, so if anyone is interested - I can write brief explanation what needs for that


PS: Apologize for any mistakes or typos, I'm not native English speaker, but tried my best
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whitex

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Amazing. Would love this but not brave enough to attempt.
It's not the things that you tried and failed that you regret the most, it's the things you never tried in the first place. If you take your time and you're careful, you limit your absolute worst case scenario (if you just give up) to having to tow the car to the dealer, they put it back together for you in a few hours - so it costs you a few hundred dollars (only if you really fail, which is a low risk). It might take you more time than the OP, so allocate a day for something like this. Also, take pictures along the way, not to post here, but to be able to back-track and reverse the process to put things back together. YOLO.

PS> The only thing I would add is to keep you keyfob out of car's range, or (like I do), place it in a metal can, so the car does not detect it nearby. If you're paranoid, close your phone app, and put the car in privacy mode - this it to ensure it doesn't wake up on you. I'm more paranoid than most, but I still don't bother with the privacy mode, but I do kill my phone app, just in case. As you start doing things, you realize it's not rocket science. You can do more advanced mods as you get better. I've customized many of my cars in life, it's fun, at least for me, and I get to enjoy the results for years. There is also a satisfaction of doing things yourself, I can't quite describe it, it's fun, at least for me.
 
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heimarrr

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When collecting my second-hand Taycan 4S CT I said to myself, I don’t need the Sport Chrono package, I don’t need it. This post is not helping :CWL:
 


ikrcolt

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Very cool, thanks for sharing! Mine is still see warranty (and is a lease), so won’t attempt but if I get another Taycan I’ll definitely come back to this post.
 

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Hey folks. This weekends decided to retrofit sport chrono clock because my car came without it(and no sport chrono). I have that clock in my Panamera, so felt like something it missing, so here's short breakdown how I did it.

I bought used clock with backplate from local salvage yard for about $500, but I saw them also selling on eBay. I also made small wiring loom for 3 wires - Pos/Neg and LIN bus. You can use this PN 1C0973119B to get correct connector which will connect into clock, on eBay there are already with pins inside, or just add pins yourself.
Here's pinout of connector and how it looks
IMG_5103.jpg


IMG_5090.jpg


TO start I had to remove instrument cluster. To remove it you need to pop off plastic cover thats over IC and then unscrew 4 T20(or T25 dont remember) screws. Then IC simply pops off. Make sure car went to sleep so the screen isnt on anymore to prevent any damage when you disconnect it(it can take 5 mins to fully fall asleep sleep). Remove big connector first and then video signal


IMG_5100.jpg

Remove video cable and big connector. Now we need to wire our clock to this connector. At first - remove housing, that purple small clip that holds connector in housing, just push it up and it will pop off. Next step - we need to add pin #17. This is where one of LIN bus wires lives and this bus made specifically to feed data to clock. The connector has 4 labels marking position of pins. The pin for #17 located in corner, but in my case connector didnt have pin, so I had to add one. You can use crimping tool to make it, but I didnt have this small pins, so I just found old wiring loom from VW and pulled one of pins from that loom and it fit perfectly

IMG_5106.jpg


Next step - remove central speaker cover. Just use pry tool and pry it up. Remove speaker for some time, so it'd be easier to work.

At first I routed wires through hole near air vent channel, but I didnt like that I could see it when I'd put speaker cover back, so I drilled tiny hole behind air vent like 5mm diameter and routed wires there. Took a bit of back and forth, few wires to get it in a route I wanted, but eventually got it done

Last step - add power and ground. You can use any red wire on connector for +12v and any brown wire for ground. In my case I used PIN 31 for +12v and pin 30 for ground. Simply cut isolation off, soldered and put isolation tape back.

Now it's basically done. I insulated with same isolation tape as rest of the loom, so in my case it looks like its been factory made. Connect clock, connect instrument cluster(video signal first, then big connector) and turn car on. You should have your time reset, so go to PCM and set it again. The clock should synchronize with car time right away.

Basic clock feature does not need any coding and works right after connecting. In my case it worked right away. Clock arrow works well, backlight also works well(the one that lights up numbers). If you wan it to be a timer, you will need to code it to car, but I'll do that sometime later when I find reasonable priced steering wheel with mode selector and add full Chrono sport to car.

This is how it looks now

camphoto_684387517 2.JPG



I hope it will help someone to retrofit it too. It took me about 3-4 hours in total with few coffee breaks.

Recently I also replaced CCS1 to CCS2 ports, so if anyone is interested - I can write brief explanation what needs for that


PS: Apologize for any mistakes or typos, I'm not native English speaker, but tried my best
[whoops]



Hey folks. This weekends decided to retrofit sport chrono clock because my car came without it(and no sport chrono). I have that clock in my Panamera, so felt like something it missing, so here's short breakdown how I did it.

I bought used clock with backplate from local salvage yard for about $500, but I saw them also selling on eBay. I also made small wiring loom for 3 wires - Pos/Neg and LIN bus. You can use this PN 1C0973119B to get correct connector which will connect into clock, on eBay there are already with pins inside, or just add pins yourself.
Here's pinout of connector and how it looks
IMG_5103.jpg


IMG_5090.jpg


TO start I had to remove instrument cluster. To remove it you need to pop off plastic cover thats over IC and then unscrew 4 T20(or T25 dont remember) screws. Then IC simply pops off. Make sure car went to sleep so the screen isnt on anymore to prevent any damage when you disconnect it(it can take 5 mins to fully fall asleep sleep). Remove big connector first and then video signal


IMG_5100.jpg

Remove video cable and big connector. Now we need to wire our clock to this connector. At first - remove housing, that purple small clip that holds connector in housing, just push it up and it will pop off. Next step - we need to add pin #17. This is where one of LIN bus wires lives and this bus made specifically to feed data to clock. The connector has 4 labels marking position of pins. The pin for #17 located in corner, but in my case connector didnt have pin, so I had to add one. You can use crimping tool to make it, but I didnt have this small pins, so I just found old wiring loom from VW and pulled one of pins from that loom and it fit perfectly

IMG_5106.jpg


Next step - remove central speaker cover. Just use pry tool and pry it up. Remove speaker for some time, so it'd be easier to work.

At first I routed wires through hole near air vent channel, but I didnt like that I could see it when I'd put speaker cover back, so I drilled tiny hole behind air vent like 5mm diameter and routed wires there. Took a bit of back and forth, few wires to get it in a route I wanted, but eventually got it done

Last step - add power and ground. You can use any red wire on connector for +12v and any brown wire for ground. In my case I used PIN 31 for +12v and pin 30 for ground. Simply cut isolation off, soldered and put isolation tape back.

Now it's basically done. I insulated with same isolation tape as rest of the loom, so in my case it looks like its been factory made. Connect clock, connect instrument cluster(video signal first, then big connector) and turn car on. You should have your time reset, so go to PCM and set it again. The clock should synchronize with car time right away.

Basic clock feature does not need any coding and works right after connecting. In my case it worked right away. Clock arrow works well, backlight also works well(the one that lights up numbers). If you wan it to be a timer, you will need to code it to car, but I'll do that sometime later when I find reasonable priced steering wheel with mode selector and add full Chrono sport to car.

This is how it looks now

camphoto_684387517 2.JPG



I hope it will help someone to retrofit it too. It took me about 3-4 hours in total with few coffee breaks.

Recently I also replaced CCS1 to CCS2 ports, so if anyone is interested - I can write brief explanation what needs for that


PS: Apologize for any mistakes or typos, I'm not native English speaker, but tried my best
Very impressive work, sir. Looks great!
 
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Flying ace

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Good confirmation. I planned to retrofit to the compass from sport Chrono clock, and have confidence it's plug and play
 

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I knew this thread was going to cost me money ... after convincing myself the past year I don't really need the chrono, I now went looking for the parts and I found a cheap OEM chrono with dashboard trim so I bought it :)

so now sourcing a 1C0973119B with pins

then run the 3 wires (about 15 inches I guess?) to that long white connector
LIN to pin 17
a bit unsure about what type of pin is needed for this in case it is missing in the connector

solder
+12v to pin 31
ground to pin 30

Don't care about the chrono in instrument cluster, as long as the clock illumination works and it shows the time, it's all I'm after.
 
OP
OP

alex_bell

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I knew this thread was going to cost me money ... after convincing myself the past year I don't really need the chrono, I now went looking for the parts and I found a cheap OEM chrono with dashboard trim so I bought it :)

so now sourcing a 1C0973119B with pins

then run the 3 wires (about 15 inches I guess?) to that long white connector
LIN to pin 17
a bit unsure about what type of pin is needed for this in case it is missing in the connector

solder
+12v to pin 31
ground to pin 30

Don't care about the chrono in instrument cluster, as long as the clock illumination works and it shows the time, it's all I'm after.
Hey, glad someone else joins the party

So yeah you need pin 17, I can't say which type because I dont know, but pretty much any electronics shop(the one that sells solder irons) have kits of different size. In my case I had old VW wiring loom so I found matching pin in one of older connectors and used it.

The rest should seem to be correct. I had about 50cm wires originally, but later cut it off to have needed length
 

MrJones02

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thank you for the info, your post made me more confident to take on this job

soldering to the existing wires makes me a bit nervous so I might get 12v from an add-a-fuse thingy with 12v pigtail and ground from the bolt near the fuse-box
just need to run some longer wire then

It will allow me to completely remove the chrono again (if needed) with no trace of it ever been there.
 
Last edited:
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OP

alex_bell

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thank you for the info, your post made me more confident to take on this job

soldering to the existing wires makes me a bit nervous so I might get 12v from an add-a-fuse thingy with 12v pigtail and ground from the bolt near the fuse-box
just need to run some longer wire then

It will allow me to completely remove the chrono again (if needed) with no trace of it ever been there.
you can skip soldering and instead remove insulation and add your new wires there adding insulation afterwards
 
 








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