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i tried testing the animations in the piwis while i had my lights out and a temporary LIN connected. no luck. since then i have found a few more settings in PIWIS that may had needed to be turned on for that to work though. I had welcome_light not_active at the time. no idea what the other...

I've got these client mode wifi settings in my last VAL, so maybe its possible to turn on. MU_TI_001010 >> Control unit, coding >> function_configuration_connectivity: Bitfield wifi_client_mode_5GHz: off MU_TI_001010 >> Control unit, coding >> function_configuration_connectivity: Bitfield...

never got mine

i expect suncoast to put a retrofit kit together pretty soon

maybe? my piwis is on its way back to china for some kind of repair, at the rate things are going im not expecting to have it back for a month

https://superetka.com/etka/?lang=EN&marke=PO for all your part lookups, https://superetka.com/etka/?lang=EN&marke=PO&model=1&year=4&mainGr=8&subGr=7788#aa07 for the b-pillar specifically looks like they made an update to the part at some point but for slate race-tex i think you want...

if its the noise i had, the dealership added some felt tape under the console trim behind the wheel. i've had some other noise up near the a pillar that went away when i added some felt tape under my B-pillar, so it was a reflection the whole time. the b-pillar was a huge source of noise.

those nhtsa settings

From my notes. I've been trying to find a way to better organize this or build a simple website to track PIWIS settings.

I’d start with a rim repair van and see if they can just respray the clear or if they need to do more work

more likely than not its what is causing the chips to peel

cleaning with a pressure washer?

SoH can be read with a PIWIS or with OBD with the Electric Sidecar app (written by a forum member)

if you want to test out if the LIN has any action on the light, i would start with the right tail light, you should be able to connect A3 directly to C5 on the BCM and run a light test on PIWIS to see if the light animates. its a direct connection so you won't be wasting much effort if it works.

thats a fat finger. its a 6pin connector. looks like https://www.automotive-connectors.com/4h0973713h-6-way-sealed-female-connector-1-5-mm-with-cpa-2-row-coding-ii-vw-restricted.html?___store=english

nothing yet. I have ordered the connectors from alibaba so I would have fitting pins, but I am waiting on suncoast for a euro light order before I tear into things

most obvious thing is making sure the deck stops/bag holders are out, if that is not it and it sounds more like a metal sound you can check the lid latch or the stops and see if it needs adjusting.

I installed my front camera and left the line to my rear camera up inside of the headliner for next time. I took some photos that may be helpful for some people. The units now use these chunky wires for power and for the rear camera run, the only way i could make them work was to have them...

do the door panels still hover a few mm off of the doors? curious if they addressed the main source of rattles there.

its why i asked about the weight, if its the part i think it is, those pieces fold out and the tires rest on them. they are definitely plastic on plastic, so a heavier bike could break it over a hard bump or something. we have e-bikes but i take the batteries off when i put it on the rack...