Piwi diagnostic program for Porche Taykan

[tigerbalm]

Double check with your specific model year user manual, but below is a picture of said switch which I found on the internet (I think it's the interlock with the green padlock). Full disclosure, I never touched any of my high voltage components in my car, so I know this from theory only, therefore personally cannot guarantee the 800V will be off everywhere, especially if someone messed with your car in the past (they could have bypassed this switch for example, people do stupid things sometimes when trying to get cars to run).

Here is the official info that Porsche shares with government emergency services about safety systems in their cars (including Taycan).

It backs up everything that @whitex says here.

https://files.porsche.com/filestore...11ea-80cc-005056bbdc38/Rescue-Data-sheets.pdf

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[carlos vilarinho]

Here is the official info that Porsche shares with government emergency services about safety systems in their cars (including Taycan).

It backs up everything that @whitex says here.

https://files.porsche.com/filestore...11ea-80cc-005056bbdc38/Rescue-Data-sheets.pdf

This raises some questions for me: so according to this added file, in order to have all the high voltage systems off, it is necessary not only to disconnect the high voltage system at the front on the hood but also the second option by removing the fuse at the back next to the rear seats, or is it enough just at the front on the hood….??? The next question: Let's imagine that for safety reasons we deactivate the primary emergency point on the front hood, after finishing the work we had to do, we activate the switch again and everything goes back to normal?????

 

[Shug]

Other than using a multimeter to check the condition of the fuses throughout the car, I would wait until you have access to PIWIS to point you to the failure points.

This is where you need knowledge of how PIWIS works and what to get PIWIS to do next once a fault has been identified.

Clearly there are a number of skilled people offering their help in here, suggest you come back when you have pinpointed something you want to work on in PIWIS and receive further help.

 

[Shug]

This raises some questions for me: so according to this added file, in order to have all the high voltage systems off, it is necessary not only to disconnect the high voltage system at the front on the hood but also the second option by removing the fuse at the back next to the rear seats, or is it enough just at the front on the hood….??? The next question: Let's imagine that for safety reasons we deactivate the primary emergency point on the front hood, after finishing the work we had to do, we activate the switch again and everything goes back to normal?????

You only need to remove the front switch to disable the high voltage electrics, the rear switch / fuse is very hard to access as I described.

There is also nothing you are working on that has high voltage, so no need to disconnect. There is a message on your dash telling you it is disconnected to confirm.

Disconnecting the electrics with doors open etc leads to issues with where the windows sit after you connect the power back on again.

 

[carlos vilarinho]

You only need to remove the front switch to disable the high voltage electrics, the rear switch / fuse is very hard to access as I described.

There is also nothing you are working on that has high voltage, so no need to disconnect. There is a message on your dash telling you it is disconnected to confirm.

Disconnecting the electrics with doors open etc leads to issues with where the windows sit after you connect the power back on again.

Shrug -I would like to express my sincere gratitude to all of you who took the time to help me try to solve these problems with this car. Your willingness and knowledge were essential for me to be able to move forward with this issue.

I would also like to share that I am already purchasing PIWIS and will certainly count on your support again as soon as I have the hardware and software in hand. Knowing that I can count on such helpful people makes me much more confident to face the next challenges with this problem.

I don't know how I can thank you all for everything

Once again, thank you very much!

Other than using a multimeter to check the condition of the fuses throughout the car, I would wait until you have access to PIWIS to point you to the failure points.

This is where you need knowledge of how PIWIS works and what to get PIWIS to do next once a fault has been identified.

Clearly there are a number of skilled people offering their help in here, suggest you come back when you have pinpointed something you want to work on in PIWIS and receive further help.

 

[carlos vilarinho]

You only need to remove the front switch to disable the high voltage electrics, the rear switch / fuse is very hard to access as I described.

There is also nothing you are working on that has high voltage, so no need to disconnect. There is a message on your dash telling you it is disconnected to confirm.

Disconnecting the electrics with doors open etc leads to issues with where the windows sit after you connect the power back on again.

Yes, I had this problem the last time I removed the positive battery terminal, I left the windows open a little so I could open the doors as soon as I disconnected the 12V battery! When I reconnected the battery, the central locking was out of order and some of the windows also closed less than others, the mirrors stopped working along with the turn signals and the alarm turned on once...

 

[whitex]

The test I was generally running was F7 to clear all faults prior to working on individual items of interest.

As the voltage crept down, the test went slower and slower, but did not take long to get to just above 13 volts.

When it got to 12 volts, I was concerned and shut the session down.

Somewhere it advises you that if you let the voltage drop, it may damage some of the units.

Interesting. I’ve cleared all the errors in the past, generated VALs, recoded a whole bunch of ECU’s, never once ran into issues with 12V battery getting low. What year is your Taycan? I remember early cars has some issues with 12V dying even during parking.

PS> I am not doubting your account by the way, just really curious and a puzzled how I avoided draining my 12V during my tinkering. In the past I've drained the 12V on my Tesla before learning to hookup a tender whenever disconnecting the main MCU (which controls the recharging of 12V), so was watching the Taycan 12V supply carefully when tinkering.

 

[Shug]

You could be right about there being issues with early cars whitex, mine is a 2021, there were a few errors that were not easy to clear including a high voltage charger, so the circumstances may have been specific.


When I read that the 90amp charger was a requirement for a number of the recalls, I thought that must be what I was missing and in my case it was true.

 

[tigerbalm]

Interesting. I’ve cleared all the errors in the past, generated VALs, recoded a whole bunch of ECU’s, never once ran into issues with 12V battery getting low. What year is your Taycan? I remember early cars has some issues with 12V dying even during parking.

PS> I am not doubting your account by the way, just really curious and a puzzled how I avoided draining my 12V during my tinkering. In the past I've drained the 12V on my Tesla before learning to hookup a tender whenever disconnecting the main MCU (which controls the recharging of 12V), so was watching the Taycan 12V supply carefully when tinkering.

A lot of TSBs have a procedure where one of the first steps is connecting in a 12 volt battery charger (usually called "VAS 5908 battery charger 90 A" in the documentation). So workshops do plug in a charger when doing any "programming or software updating" using PIWIS.

Attached is a random TSB – I know it references MY2020 cars – but later TSBs refer to the same procedures.

https://porsche.snapon.com/forms/VAS5908_MPC4_Manual_14VDC_EN.pdf

 

[whitex]

A lot of TSBs have a procedure where one of the first steps is connecting in a 12 volt battery charger (usually called "VAS 5908 battery charger 90 A" in the documentation). So workshops do plug in a charger when doing any "programming or software updating" using PIWIS.

Attached is a random TSB – I know it references MY2020 cars – but later TSBs refer to the same procedures.

https://porsche.snapon.com/forms/VAS5908_MPC4_Manual_14VDC_EN.pdf

Could be a copy paste from ICE cars or early Taycans, or perhaps an abundance of caution in case the car being diagnosed has a bad 12V battery, or if the DC-DC system is malfunctioning? To reiterate, I am not saying I know for a fact that it's not needed, only that I always watch my 12V (13-14V actually) whenever playing with PIWIS or other OBD tools, and never had a problem on the Taycan. Granted, all but one of my PIWIS adventures were recoding a perfectly functional Taycan, so everything, including the 12V charging, was fully functional.

I also have a 24/7 dual channel dashcam running in my Taycan, had it parked for a week at the airport without any issues (I carefully monitored the 12V supply for few weeks after installing it too). It uses the dashcam pre-wire, so perhaps my Taycan knows the dashcam is pulling power (had to install a fuse to enable the pre-wire, so perhaps Taycan is sensing voltage on the dashcam supply and kicking in extra 12V recharge cycle limits, or removing the limit completely?). This is just a speculation.

 

[carlos vilarinho]

Interesting. I’ve cleared all the errors in the past, generated VALs, recoded a whole bunch of ECU’s, never once ran into issues with 12V battery getting low. What year is your Taycan? I remember early cars has some issues with 12V dying even during parking.

PS> I am not doubting your account by the way, just really curious and a puzzled how I avoided draining my 12V during my tinkering. In the past I've drained the 12V on my Tesla before learning to hookup a tender whenever disconnecting the main MCU (which controls the recharging of 12V), so was watching the Taycan 12V supply carefully when tinkering.

Hi Whitex My Taykan is a 2022 Cross Turismo!

 

[carlos vilarinho]

My car just arrived from Porsche where the driver who brought the car to my house was commenting that the Porsche service guy told him that they didn't want to fix the car because the car had been involved in some fire, the car didn't catch fire because of him the car was broken into and someone broke the window and set fire to the back door panel, unbelievable especially when this is even commented to the driver only tow truck that I sent to pick up the car, anyway! Here's a short video so you can see more closely what the car is like inside and the errors that the instrument panel shows! One thing as you can see in the video the automatic brake is active the car is in (P) park but on the instrument panel that light referring to the handbrake is simply not active, which I find strange the automatic brake is working, could it be that the instrument panel below in the lights information is also giving wrong information????

Could be a copy paste from ICE cars or early Taycans, or perhaps an abundance of caution in case the car being diagnosed has a bad 12V battery, or if the DC-DC system is malfunctioning? To reiterate, I am not saying I know for a fact that it's not needed, only that I always watch my 12V (13-14V actually) whenever playing with PIWIS or other OBD tools, and never had a problem on the Taycan. Granted, all but one of my PIWIS adventures were recoding a perfectly functional Taycan, so everything, including the 12V charging, was fully functional.

I also have a 24/7 dual channel dashcam running in my Taycan, had it parked for a week at the airport without any issues (I carefully monitored the 12V supply for few weeks after installing it too). It uses the dashcam pre-wire, so perhaps my Taycan knows the dashcam is pulling power (had to install a fuse to enable the pre-wire, so perhaps Taycan is sensing voltage on the dashcam supply and kicking in extra 12V recharge cycle limits, or removing the limit completely?). This is just a speculation.

Hi Whitex My Taykan is a 2022 Cross Turismo!

You only need to remove the front switch to disable the high voltage electrics, the rear switch / fuse is very hard to access as I described.

There is also nothing you are working on that has high voltage, so no need to disconnect. There is a message on your dash telling you it is disconnected to confirm.

Disconnecting the electrics with doors open etc leads to issues with where the windows sit after you connect the power back on again.

front switch In my car!!!

 

[carlos vilarinho]

I was trying to upload the videos but it didn't work??????

 

[whitex]

I was trying to upload the videos but it didn't work??????

Upload to Youtube, then paste the link here.

 

[Shug]

Black box to the left of the 800V isolator is full of fuses.

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