Installing V1 w/ MirrorTap AND FitcamX?

[DerekS]

@DerekS , if it was me I would definitely check this out before going through the trouble of V1 installation. Quickest way is to drive to a supermarket with a door opener which triggers your V1 (turn off all filtering, A mode IIRC). Stop the car facing the radar source, then hold the detector where you plan to mount it, note the signal strength (ideally stop where it's 50% or less), then open the window and hold the detector out the window facing the same direction, not the difference in signal strength. Repeat by parking facing away from the source to get rear signal attenuation.

I had V1 in first Tesla Model S. Then in the second one after a while I realize my detector was performing very poorly and all the alerts came from the front direction. After doing the above test, I realized the newer Tesla has some coating reducing the signal by 80% from the front, even more from the back. Had to go with remote mount, but that got me laser jamming too, so planning to do remote on the Taycan too, even if V1 would work, though I might go fancy and run both, remote and V1, pending on whether or not I can find enough time to implement such an integration (so low likelyhood, but possible). I even thought of mounting the V1 on top of the roof or roof rail for best, unhindered reception.

Great tip and I’m ahead of you . I already confirmed the V1 can see through the noise insulated glass as long as I mount it in the black dotted region.
I tested this at the grocery store exactly as you suggested.

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[whitex]

Great tip and I’m ahead of you . I already confirmed the V1 can see through the noise insulated glass as long as I mount it in the black dotted region.
I tested this at the grocery store exactly as you suggested.

That was also the workaround on some Model S(Tesla kept on changing windshields almost daily in their production).

That said, did you test the rear reception attenuation? The dotted region only solves the front. One of the great features of V1 is the directional warnings. At the very least, you want to know if your rear is highly attenuated, so you can ignore the arrows.

 

[kort]

if you haven't already bought this unit you should peruse this forum, there might be better choices for you.
https://www.rdforum.org/

 

[PDACPA]

No idea. It wasn’t listed as a feature on the sticker.

It is listed in the options on the current build website. I am thinking it was not an option back when you ordred.

I have the V1 Gen 2 with a mirror tap and then I ran my Blackvue to the fuse box in the passenger footwell. It was a pretty easy job and I did not take off the A Pillar to do so (some parts by the dash I did for access) and the only wires visible are on the end of the dashcam where they plug in.

 

[MidwestPCar]

(Bringing this thread back ...)
Did anyone ever do both the FitCamX and a radar detector from the mirror power?
I'm considering doing the FitCamX with the included mirror power draw, and using a mirror tap in that circuit for a Valentine 1 (gen 1).
I don't know the power draws, but from what I can gather, it seems low.

Has anyone done both and, if so, results?
It's been 3 years since the question was last discussed here...


I do read that it's theoretically better to go to the fuse box and adding a circuit, but if this is "good enough", I'll go with this solution (largely due to my lack of knowledge of adding a circuit and worry about picking a non-switched circuit).

 

[DerekS]

(Bringing this thread back ...)
Did anyone ever do both the FitCamX and a radar detector from the mirror power?
I'm considering doing the FitCamX with the included mirror power draw, and using a mirror tap in that circuit for a Valentine 1 (gen 1).
I don't know the power draws, but from what I can gather, it seems low.

Has anyone done both and, if so, results?
It's been 3 years since the question was last discussed here...


I do read that it's theoretically better to go to the fuse box and adding a circuit, but if this is "good enough", I'll go with this solution (largely due to my lack of knowledge of adding a circuit and worry about picking a non-switched circuit).

I tried this and failed. The Fitcamx wouldn’t work afterward and I abandoned both.

 

[MidwestPCar]

I tried this and failed. The Fitcamx wouldn’t work afterward and I abandoned both.

Thank you Derek.
Do you have a theory on why it failed?

 

[DerekS]

Thank you Derek.
Do you have a theory on why it failed?

I wish I knew. I was spooked afterward and paid for OEM dashcam, and plugged V1 into the lighter.

 

[MidwestPCar]

I wish I knew. I was spooked afterward and paid for OEM dashcam, and plugged V1 into the lighter.

Thank you Derek. The power draw is so small it seems like it should work. But one data point and it being a failure is certainly reason to pause and consider an alternative. Thanks

 

[MidwestPCar]

I did some more forum readings and stumbled upon another thread where someone has successfully used the top circuit for both the dashcam and the radar detector.
Posts here https://www.taycanforum.com/forum/threads/fitcamx-dashcam-installation.7253/post-388211

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