Setup question for the standard 2022 Taycan charger (US location)

diegomedinaf

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48 amps should be on a 60 amp breaker and 60 amp wire not 50. amp breaker
like I said, its working perfect.

Wallbox you can regulate the juice. I have it at 48A. Completely new circuit/wires and all.

No issues whatsoever
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daveo4EV

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that requirement is there for your protection - circuits that have a device on them that can run "continuously" for more than 2 hours - are designated "continuous" use devices - for continuous use devices you are only allowed to use 80% of the rated circuit load to avoid overheating the wire and it's insulation.

over time pulling too much power on inapproprate gauge wire will "stress" the wire's insulation - eventually causing it to breech/fail and then leading to an electrical fault causing it to short and potentially catch fire.

it will work perfectly right up until it doesn't - at which point you'll be lucky if it doesn't start a fire.

I would recommend dialing the wall box back to the 50 amp breaker rated load of 40 amps - if you want to run at 48 amps - get an electrician to install appropriate gauge wire for a 60 amp circuit and upgrade the breaker.
 

daveo4EV

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this electrical circuit worked flawlessly in my attic for 7 years - until one night it didn't - almost causing an attic fire - subsequent investigation lead to the discovery that inappropriate gauge wire had been used for the 60/48 amp load - and the years of multi-hour charging session eventually caused the wire to fail

I'm glad it didn't burn the house down.

Porsche Taycan Setup question for the standard 2022 Taycan charger (US location) 7A83EB66-527A-4618-AB36-62080143F134
 

daveo4EV

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like I said, its working perfect.

Wallbox you can regulate the juice. I have it at 48A. Completely new circuit/wires and all.

No issues whatsoever
running 48 amps on a 50 amp circuit for more than 2 hours is really risky and there are several problems:
  • depending on the type/quality of the breaker it may trip during charging while you're asleep - there are different types of breakers that behave differently for different types of load - over time it may cause the breaker to "age" and begin tripping more frequently even though technically you've not exceeded 50 amps
  • depending on the actual wire gauge 48 amps on 8 gauge wire will ACCUMULATE a LOT of heat across a 2-9 hour charging session. The problem here is thermal-stress accumulation over time…leading to wire insulation fatigue increasing the chance of insulation failure in the future…it will work right up until the point it doesn't
    • When the wire heats up (and it WILL heat up at 48 amps) it expands, this expands the insulation (which is also warm and now a bit mushy due to the heat) - when the wire cools it will contract as will the insulation and add just a fractional bit of fatigue to insulation - next time it expands/contacts it will be ever so slightly less resilient…
    • more heat = more expansion - which ='s more contraction which equals more fatigue
    • over time this thermal-breathing warming/cooling stresses the plastic insulation and eventually it could crack/fail allowing a short and potential fire
    • so one day during it's expansion/contraction a small crack will begin to develop and eventually a "breech" which can/will lead to a short…
    • 8 gauge wire will be 30-60F higher temp than 6 gauge wire at the same 48 amp load - 4 gauge wire will only experience a 10-20F temp rise at 48 amp load
      • so there is less thermal expansion at the same amp loads - leading to less fatigue on the wire's insulation - increasing the longevity of the insulation…
  • Also over time wire insulation becomes more brittle - reducing it's resistance to fatigue and increasing the fatigue rate in the fact of thermal expansion/contraction - it gets less resilient over time - which means you want to stress it LESS
Now the failure modes here are:
  1. un-necessary breaker trips - waking up to your car not charged over night cause the breaker is fatigued from overuse - not so bad
  2. And/Or wire insulation failure leading to short-circuit and actual 🔥 fire.
48 amp continuous load (2 hours or more) should be run on at least 6 gauge wire (preferably 4 gauge) to reduce the thermal loads, which reduces expansions/contraction and thereby thermaly stresses the wire insulation less dramatically reducing the chance of insulation failure due to long duration accumulated thermal stress.

the issue here is _NOT_ the breaker - it's the wire gauge typically installed along with a 50 amp breaker…10/8 gauge wire can "pass" a building electical code inspection for a 50 amp circuit - but 10/8 gauge wire is _NOT_ rated for continuous load at 48 amps - it's rated for 40 amp continuous loads - or 50 amp loads for 2 hours or less…it's the duration of the load that is the factor here no the absolute value of the amps - we're managing accumulated thermal stress over time to avoid long term fatigue failures…

oh and by the way these sorts of code recommendations are not just BS engineering stuff pulled out of thin air - most of these types of recommendations are from accumulated actual experience from failure analysis when these sorts of recommendations were not present in the past…i.e. wow this failed spectacularly and if we'd simplly used 6 gauge wire instead of 8 gauge wire this would've never happened.

now if you have 4/6 gauge wire on your 50 amp breaker - then there is no issue - it's the wire that is the risk here, not the breaker and there is no safety issue, but at that point swapping the breaker is both easy/cheap and will match building code because you have appropriate wire/gauge for a continous 48 amp load - a new 60 amp breaker is $50 or less and should take no more than 1 hour of labor to swap - and boom your done…

the problem here is not the breaker, and it will work (you can pull 100 amps across any gauge wire for some period of time, but if it's 14 gauge wire it _WILL_ eventually fail)

the problem here is accumulated thermal stress over time will lead to insulation failure if your wire gauge is not up to the task - and if the wire gauge isn't rated for 48 amps (the insulation is not rated for 48 amps) it's not a matter of "if" it will fail, it's simply a matter of "when" it will fail…mostly likely while you're asleep about 3 hours into a charging session which started at 11 pm - so about 2 am while everyone's asleep if you're following overnight charging patterns.
 
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diegomedinaf

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running 48 amps on a 50 amp circuit for more than 2 hours is really risky and there are several problems:
  • depending on the type/quality of the breaker it may trip during charging while you're asleep - there are different types of breakers that behave differently for different types of load - over time it may cause the breaker to "age" and begin tripping more frequently even though technically you've not exceeded 50 amps
  • depending on the actual wire gauge 48 amps on 8 gauge wire will ACCUMULATE a LOT of heat across a 2-9 hour charging session. The problem here is thermal-stress accumulation over time…leading to wire insulation fatigue increasing the chance of insulation failure in the future…it will work right up until the point it doesn't
    • When the wire heats up (and it WILL heat up at 48 amps) it expands, this expands the insulation (which is also warm and now a bit mushy due to the heat) - when the wire cools it will contract as will the insulation and add just a fractional bit of fatigue to insulation - next time it expands/contacts it will be ever so slightly less resilient…
    • more heat = more expansion - which ='s more contraction which equals more fatigue
    • over time this thermal-breathing warming/cooling stresses the plastic insulation and eventually it could crack/fail allowing a short and potential fire
    • so one day during it's expansion/contraction a small crack will begin to develop and eventually a "breech" which can/will lead to a short…
    • 8 gauge wire will be 30-60F higher temp than 6 gauge wire at the same 48 amp load - 4 gauge wire will only experience a 10-20F temp rise at 48 amp load
      • so there is less thermal expansion at the same amp loads - leading to less fatigue on the wire's insulation - increasing the longevity of the insulation…
  • Also over time wire insulation becomes more brittle - reducing it's resistance to fatigue and increasing the fatigue rate in the fact of thermal expansion/contraction - it gets less resilient over time - which means you want to stress it LESS
Now the failure modes here are:
  1. un-necessary breaker trips - waking up to your car not charged over night cause the breaker is fatigued from overuse - not so bad
  2. And/Or wire insulation failure leading to short-circuit and actual 🔥 fire.
48 amp continuous load (2 hours or more) should be run on at least 6 gauge wire (preferably 4 gauge) to reduce the thermal loads, which reduces expansions/contraction and thereby thermaly stresses the wire insulation less dramatically reducing the chance of insulation failure due to long duration accumulated thermal stress.

the issue here is _NOT_ the breaker - it's the wire gauge typically installed along with a 50 amp breaker…10/8 gauge wire can "pass" a building electical code inspection for a 50 amp circuit - but 10/8 gauge wire is _NOT_ rated for continuous load at 48 amps - it's rated for 40 amp continuous loads - or 50 amp loads for 2 hours or less…it's the duration of the load that is the factor here no the absolute value of the amps - we're managing accumulated thermal stress over time to avoid long term fatigue failures…

oh and by the way these sorts of code recommendations are not just BS engineering stuff pulled out of thin air - most of these types of recommendations are from accumulated actual experience from failure analysis when these sorts of recommendations were not present in the past…i.e. wow this failed spectacularly and if we'd simplly used 6 gauge wire instead of 8 gauge wire this would've never happened.

now if you have 4/6 gauge wire on your 50 amp breaker - then there is no issue - it's the wire that is the risk here, not the breaker and there is no safety issue, but at that point swapping the breaker is both easy/cheap and will match building code because you have appropriate wire/gauge for a continous 48 amp load - a new 60 amp breaker is $50 or less and should take no more than 1 hour of labor to swap - and boom your done…

the problem here is not the breaker, and it will work (you can pull 100 amps across any gauge wire for some period of time, but if it's 14 gauge wire it _WILL_ eventually fail)

the problem here is accumulated thermal stress over time will lead to insulation failure if your wire gauge is not up to the task - and if the wire gauge isn't rated for 48 amps (the insulation is not rated for 48 amps) it's not a matter of "if" it will fail, it's simply a matter of "when" it will fail…mostly likely while you're asleep about 3 hours into a charging session which started at 11 pm - so about 2 am while everyone's asleep if you're following overnight charging patterns.
Thanks for the master class 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

I will ask my electrician as this circuit was run very new and only for the charger when we changed the electrical panel on the house. Many wires were run not only this one because we installed a 3 phase water heater.

so I will ask him what number is the wire.
For now one of the wallbox advantages is I can regulate the amps. I will bring down to 40A until I get the answer from him

on the other hand I’ve only charger at home 2 times. Car is new and usually takes me a long time to get to 20% or less to put charge back to 85%.

I charged the eTron once but the charge took a lot longer on that car, not sure why.

you can prob answer this: what will be the charging time difference between running 40A vs 48A? I have a timer for the car to be ready at 535am ( on timer not profile )
 

diegomedinaf

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running 48 amps on a 50 amp circuit for more than 2 hours is really risky and there are several problems:
  • depending on the type/quality of the breaker it may trip during charging while you're asleep - there are different types of breakers that behave differently for different types of load - over time it may cause the breaker to "age" and begin tripping more frequently even though technically you've not exceeded 50 amps
  • depending on the actual wire gauge 48 amps on 8 gauge wire will ACCUMULATE a LOT of heat across a 2-9 hour charging session. The problem here is thermal-stress accumulation over time…leading to wire insulation fatigue increasing the chance of insulation failure in the future…it will work right up until the point it doesn't
    • When the wire heats up (and it WILL heat up at 48 amps) it expands, this expands the insulation (which is also warm and now a bit mushy due to the heat) - when the wire cools it will contract as will the insulation and add just a fractional bit of fatigue to insulation - next time it expands/contacts it will be ever so slightly less resilient…
    • more heat = more expansion - which ='s more contraction which equals more fatigue
    • over time this thermal-breathing warming/cooling stresses the plastic insulation and eventually it could crack/fail allowing a short and potential fire
    • so one day during it's expansion/contraction a small crack will begin to develop and eventually a "breech" which can/will lead to a short…
    • 8 gauge wire will be 30-60F higher temp than 6 gauge wire at the same 48 amp load - 4 gauge wire will only experience a 10-20F temp rise at 48 amp load
      • so there is less thermal expansion at the same amp loads - leading to less fatigue on the wire's insulation - increasing the longevity of the insulation…
  • Also over time wire insulation becomes more brittle - reducing it's resistance to fatigue and increasing the fatigue rate in the fact of thermal expansion/contraction - it gets less resilient over time - which means you want to stress it LESS
Now the failure modes here are:
  1. un-necessary breaker trips - waking up to your car not charged over night cause the breaker is fatigued from overuse - not so bad
  2. And/Or wire insulation failure leading to short-circuit and actual 🔥 fire.
48 amp continuous load (2 hours or more) should be run on at least 6 gauge wire (preferably 4 gauge) to reduce the thermal loads, which reduces expansions/contraction and thereby thermaly stresses the wire insulation less dramatically reducing the chance of insulation failure due to long duration accumulated thermal stress.

the issue here is _NOT_ the breaker - it's the wire gauge typically installed along with a 50 amp breaker…10/8 gauge wire can "pass" a building electical code inspection for a 50 amp circuit - but 10/8 gauge wire is _NOT_ rated for continuous load at 48 amps - it's rated for 40 amp continuous loads - or 50 amp loads for 2 hours or less…it's the duration of the load that is the factor here no the absolute value of the amps - we're managing accumulated thermal stress over time to avoid long term fatigue failures…

oh and by the way these sorts of code recommendations are not just BS engineering stuff pulled out of thin air - most of these types of recommendations are from accumulated actual experience from failure analysis when these sorts of recommendations were not present in the past…i.e. wow this failed spectacularly and if we'd simplly used 6 gauge wire instead of 8 gauge wire this would've never happened.

now if you have 4/6 gauge wire on your 50 amp breaker - then there is no issue - it's the wire that is the risk here, not the breaker and there is no safety issue, but at that point swapping the breaker is both easy/cheap and will match building code because you have appropriate wire/gauge for a continous 48 amp load - a new 60 amp breaker is $50 or less and should take no more than 1 hour of labor to swap - and boom your done…

the problem here is not the breaker, and it will work (you can pull 100 amps across any gauge wire for some period of time, but if it's 14 gauge wire it _WILL_ eventually fail)

the problem here is accumulated thermal stress over time will lead to insulation failure if your wire gauge is not up to the task - and if the wire gauge isn't rated for 48 amps (the insulation is not rated for 48 amps) it's not a matter of "if" it will fail, it's simply a matter of "when" it will fail…mostly likely while you're asleep about 3 hours into a charging session which started at 11 pm - so about 2 am while everyone's asleep if you're following overnight charging patterns.
Wire used to feed the charger is 6.

goes from the charger to the breaker panel.
Should I change the breaker to 60 or dial down the charger to 40A?

thanks for the help
 

daveo4EV

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Wire used to feed the charger is 6.

goes from the charger to the breaker panel.
Should I change the breaker to 60 or dial down the charger to 40A?

thanks for the help
I'd consult with electrician to confirm 6 gauge wire would pass building code inspection for 60 amp breaker - if it would - I'd swap the breaker and you'll be good - I am not a licensed/bonded electrician and regional building code vary.

40 amp vs. 48 amp is a strait 20% faster/slow for any given charging (assuming the car can take 48 amps which the Taycan can).

so 2 hours at 48 amps is 144 minutest at 40 amps for the same charge or 2 hours and 24 minutes.
 


Tooney

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ROFL - porsche wants 6 gauge wire for 50 amps to feed their woefully under spec 10 gauge supply cable

that right there is all you need to see to know they screwed up the the PMC+/ PMCC supply cable!

now if they will only follow their own advice and give us all a new 6-gauge wire power supply cable we'lll be good.

6 gauge wire is a great choice for 50 amp circuit - they should do the same for the EVSE supply cable
Shhhhhhhhhhhhh..........................

(Anyway, everyone knows 10 is larger number than 6, so shuddup.)
 

diegomedinaf

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I'd consult with electrician to confirm 6 gauge wire would pass building code inspection for 60 amp breaker - if it would - I'd swap the breaker and you'll be good - I am not a licensed/bonded electrician and regional building code vary.

40 amp vs. 48 amp is a strait 20% faster/slow for any given charging (assuming the car can take 48 amps which the Taycan can).

so 2 hours at 48 amps is 144 minutest at 40 amps for the same charge or 2 hours and 24 minutes.
I did. Comfirmed 6 is enough wire for the 48A load.
Also from wallbox got the kWh consumption and electrician calculated the consumption and is fine. He said even with the 50 breaker at the current consumption we are fine and the swap for a 60 breaker its only a not needed option but a peace of mind.

He said if I want a 60 breaker he can charge me for it but with the current setup we are fine
 

daveo4EV

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if 6 gauge wire would pass code you are good

i agree on the breaker id only swap it out if it starts tripping and interrupting charging sessions
 
 




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