[VIDEO] PORSCHE TAYCAN NO POWER AFTER KICKDOWN + ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FAULT | POWER ELECTRONICS INVERTER REPAIR

[ct14garage]

After battling this issue for nearly four years, the owner finally brought his car to CT14 Garage in Bangkok, Thailand.

During that time, he had to drive extremely carefully because any heavy throttle input could trigger a red Electrical System Fault. When the fault appeared, the air conditioning would stop blowing cold and the vehicle would stop charging the 12V battery. Restarting the car would temporarily return everything to normal, but the problem always came back.

After several unsuccessful repair attempts at other workshops, the vehicle arrived at CT14 Garage. Within just one day, our team diagnosed the real cause: both the front and rear high-voltage power electronics units—also known as the inverters—had failed.

Once the customer approved the repair, our team completed the work, tested the vehicle, and had it safely back on the road within three days.

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[DerekS]

Why can’t Porsche correctly diagnose and repair these issues???

 

[ct14garage]

Why can’t Porsche correctly diagnose and repair these issues???

Local dealer here won't touch these cars as they are imported from RHD countries (usually UK, Cyprus) by non official third parties....

 

[Mr.Smith]

Have you ever heard of an inverter fail on a Taycan?

 

[freinando]

Have you ever heard of an inverter fail on a Taycan?

A rather common problem on J1.1 2020-2022.

 

[Taycan4S_UK]

Probably unrelated, but I once had the kick-down trigger an electrical error, and the air conditioning wasn’t blowing very strongly either. Porsche replaced both fans, and I haven’t had the issue since. This was over a year ago

 

[gnr3312]

I’ve seen this issue in another thread so I think I’m going to do an annual test to ensure I don’t get caught off guard one day when I really need the vehicle and the error happens. I’d rather do the controlled testing myself at a time I could spare days to repair if needed.

 

[F1Ruaraidh]

After battling this issue for nearly four years, the owner finally brought his car to CT14 Garage in Bangkok, Thailand.

During that time, he had to drive extremely carefully because any heavy throttle input could trigger a red Electrical System Fault. When the fault appeared, the air conditioning would stop blowing cold and the vehicle would stop charging the 12V battery. Restarting the car would temporarily return everything to normal, but the problem always came back.

After several unsuccessful repair attempts at other workshops, the vehicle arrived at CT14 Garage. Within just one day, our team diagnosed the real cause: both the front and rear high-voltage power electronics units—also known as the inverters—had failed.

Once the customer approved the repair, our team completed the work, tested the vehicle, and had it safely back on the road within three days.

Did you replace the inverters with new parts? Or repair them?

 

[ct14garage]

Did you replace the inverters with new parts? Or repair them?

In this case they were repaired with new ones as per customer choice cuz he needed them to be 100%.

However the DC Link capacitor inside each inverter can be replaced and thus they can be repaired.

 

[F1Ruaraidh]

In this case they were repaired with new ones as per customer choice cuz he needed them to be 100%.

However the DC Link capacitor inside each inverter can be replaced and thus they can be repaired.

It's the caps that are the weak point?

Interesting failure mode. Just overheating and failing?

Or isolation failure?

 

[ct14garage]

It's the caps that are the weak point?

Interesting failure mode. Just overheating and failing?

Or isolation failure? Sponsored

No that's just the DC Link capacitor which acts as a shock absorber for the DC Bus absorbing the ripple generated by the inrush current into the motors when accelerating hard.

This capacitor degrades over time and loses capacitance, so it loses its ripple absorption properties and then when you accelerate hard (or not so hard depending on how degraded it is).... that ripple makes voltage and current sensors measurements go nuts which causes the red circle of light

 

[F1Ruaraidh]

No that's just the DC Link capacitor which acts as a shock absorber for the DC Bus absorbing the ripple generated by the inrush current into the motors when accelerating hard.

This capacitor degrades over time and loses capacitance, so it loses its ripple absorption properties and then when you accelerate hard (or not so hard depending on how degraded it is).... that ripple makes voltage and current sensors measurements go nuts which causes the red circle of light

Yep I understand how inverters work, that's the day job!

So basically either designed too small too small to start with (betting it's the same size across all the model variants despite increasing current) and no margin for error and then degrades with heat/voltage stress through use so capacitance reduces further.

Good find.

190uF is nothing as far as a high current inverter goes! Does the cap have any manufacturers markings saying what it's supposed to be?

 

[ct14garage]

190uF is nothing as far as a high current inverter goes! Does the cap have any manufacturers markings saying what it's supposed to be?

Yes

factory spec is 800uF with minimum accepted threshold 600uF for REAR INVERTER
factory spec is 400uF with minimum accepted threshold 300uF for FRONT INVERTER (except TurboS)
factory spec is 800uF with minimum accepted threshold 600uF for FRONT INVERTER (except TurboS)


In this case the rear was at 190uF hence why any throttle input above say 40-50% was making the car go nuts!

 

[F1Ruaraidh]

Yes

factory spec is 800uF with minimum accepted threshold 600uF for REAR INVERTER
factory spec is 400uF with minimum accepted threshold 300uF for FRONT INVERTER (except TurboS)
factory spec is 800uF with minimum accepted threshold 600uF for FRONT INVERTER (except TurboS)


In this case the rear was at 190uF hence why any throttle input above say 40-50% was making the car go nuts!

Wow, that's properly failed, who's the cap supplier?

 

[ct14garage]

Wow, that's properly failed, who's the cap supplier?

Not sure about original ones.

I have my own supplier in China which provides me with 70uF 1200V capacitors x6 = 420uF for front and x12 = 840 uF

We offer this repair as a cheaper alternative but it cannot be guaranteed 100% when it will fail again because they are not original!

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