Range ST GTS

Leverage

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Mine started around 400 - 450 miles iirc.
Prior to that I used the regen setting on the steering wheel button to get a little bit when slowing, but don't need to use it now that regen braking has kicked in.
Thank you all for the responses.
Indeed I’m currently using the regen on the steering but have a hard time to know when to use the “Automatic” or normal regen.
Also I’m wondering why you don’t feel the need to use it now ? Not worth the few extra miles or you don’t like the way it’s performing?
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or1

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The saving going down is significant but the consumption going up is significantly higher. I find one pretty well cancels the other out.
Sure - even with some loss. But compared to going up and down with no regen the saving is significant. Braking (without regen) is a waste of energy.

When I had a Tesla Model S, I liked one-pedal driving. But now with the Taycan I do it the default way with "sailing" when no pedal is active. Then I know exactly when I regen and when I don't. Sailing is a nice feeling, too.
 

or1

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Thank you all for the responses.
Indeed I’m currently using the regen on the steering but have a hard time to know when to use the “Automatic” or normal regen.
Also I’m wondering why you don’t feel the need to use it now ? Not worth the few extra miles or you don’t like the way it’s performing?
As I said just above here, I don't use automatic regen anymore. With auto, it is easy to accelerate a bit (too) much and afterwards auto-regen a bit more than necessary again. To regen with the brake pedal only is most efficient (the regen itself is the same, but using it a bit less causes less loss in inefficiency).

Then I can use all the energy available for the fun part: active driving.
 

f1eng

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When I had a Tesla Model S, I liked one-pedal driving.
I hated 1 pedal driving when I tried it.
I can put up with for it 40 minutes on my lawnmower but really hated it in a car.
I appreciate it is cheap and easy to implement but it is not for me!
 

f1eng

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Thank you all for the responses.
Indeed I’m currently using the regen on the steering but have a hard time to know when to use the “Automatic” or normal regen.
Also I’m wondering why you don’t feel the need to use it now ? Not worth the few extra miles or you don’t like the way it’s performing?
The default "coasting" is the most efficient, ie only regenerating with the brake pedal is best, so now that function is initiated I no longer use the optional little bit of regen on the button which is really only intended to make the car feel more like engine braking in an IC engined car.
Coasting was the most effective way to save fuel for the least loss of lap time in Formula 1, FWIW.
 


or1

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All braking with regen is energywise the same, whether done by brake pedal or by auto (or by InnoDrive for that matter). The differences lie in convenience versus conscious efficiency. Regen is 80-85% efficient as far as I know. Using regen instead of disc/drum brakes is indeed efficient - but not using any braking is even more efficient.

i like to know what happens with the car's energy, and I try to be efficient sometimes and spend much energy at other times. I am not so fond of when the car takes these decisions for me. Thus I didn't like InnoDrive either when I tried it, it was much too much to not be in command.
 

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Porsche Taycan Range ST GTS IMG_4729

Non ST GTS after run in, winter, ca. 40% highway with relatively high speed (no ticket up to 147km/h) so ACC on 150km/h. SoH 98%.
 
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jetbox

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This is right now from the app. Scotland in winter, that’s a reasonably accurate figure as long as it’s not all short trips

Porsche Taycan Range ST GTS F7CD22CD-922B-471E-A888-FBE0D04D22B7
 
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Daniel

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The default "coasting" is the most efficient.
I completely agree that the coasting mode is the most efficient.

In addition, living in the Alps, I was able to observe a 3% gain of SOC for 1000 meters of negative elevation, obtained with "moderate to heavy" braking but less than 0.4 g
 
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Leverage

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I completely agree that the coasting mode is the most efficient.

In addition, living in the Alps, I was able to observe a 3% gain of SOC for 1000 meters of negative elevation, obtained with "moderate to heavy" braking but less than 0.4 g
So just to be on the same page, the "default" coasting mode is the one when you press only one time on the regenerative button. Right?
 

Keysersoze

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Porsche Taycan Range ST GTS D424A894-00CD-41FB-B45B-4C2272B21E19

Just hit 500 miles and range increasing each char…….
 

ciaranob

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D424A894-00CD-41FB-B45B-4C2272B21E19.jpeg

Just hit 500 miles and range increasing each char…….
This is good but better to share some key associated info like was the AC/heater on, what drive mode was the car in etc., as all these affect the displayed estimated or predicted range. And remember this is just that, a range prediction - how you setup the car, average speed, trip length/duration, weather, terrain, wheels/tires etc. all will impact actual or consumptive range.
That said I think you got to ca. 254 miles (at 100%) a little sooner than me :)

Have a look at this thread and the chart near there the end of my first post to give a feel of how this predicted range estimation varies and between seasons:

https://www.taycanforum.com/forum/threads/charge-range-and-efficiency-one-years-data.14903/

... and quite literally, YMMV :)

Cheers, C.
 

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I can't get anywhere near to some of these figures in my RWD Taycan, 21" rims, PB+. The most I've ever seen is 320km (199 miles). I'm well aware of all the caveats, but at 8,500 km, I would have expected better range by now. In fact, the best range I ever achieved from the car was in the first week of picking it up, at 337km. And that was charging it up with 3% battery left.
 

f1eng

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I don't think a photo of the charging screen tells much without other data, particularly in winter.
What mine shows when I have just charged to 80% and the battery has warmed up a bit is sometimes 10% more than the next morning when everything has cooled down again.
Anybody using the timer to charge just before they drive the car will have the battery condition closer to optimum than somebody who just jumps in the car cold so will probably always get better displayed range.
Personally I largely ignore the displayed range now since the calculation varies with battery temperature and keep an eye on miles per kW/h for individual trips and overall.
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