lowering e-tron GT

[taycanlovers]

anybody already tested this own?

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[Mr.Smith]

anybody already tested this own?

You can do this with a CETE modual. Keeps the warrant and you can lower it as much as you like.
Problem is that if you lower it 1", it Lowers that is all 3 settings.
Ride quality is definitely compromised, but boy does it look cool.

I wish it would just remove the wheel gap when parked and leave everything else the same when driving.

The car bottoms out all the time already. Lowering it more would make it difficult to drive IMO

 

[taycanlovers]

yeah but this cete modul is quiet expensive (more then 1k) and you have to mount it.

With this OBDAPP solution you do only via OBD-Port so no change in wirings / hardware on the car and you can adjust all wheel heights an have additional also an show mode to bleed the dampers. Works here on taycan perfect, in order to have same dampers in the e-tron GT it would be for sure also easy to handle it there. actually no friends have an e-tron GT but will test it if i can catch one.

 

[Dee]

Ride quality is definitely compromised, but boy does it look cool.

There's no loss of comfort when you have air suspension.
That only goes for lowering springs.

 

[buruburu]

There's no loss of comfort when you have air suspension.
That only goes for lowering springs.

I dunno if i would say that's true. I've noticed that in range mode which lowers the car, the ride is harsher than at normal. This is probably because the reduced suspension travel so instead of being on the springs, you're riding the bump stops which is going to much harsher.

 

[taycanlovers]

with this OBDAPP you can see live data of the air suspension, current heights of the dampers as also the pressure in the dampers.

if you go lower, the pressure decreases in order to need pressure out to go lower. but its right that with an lowered damper its harsher as before, definitly. But for me its much better as before in order to have more direct drive feeling with (as with normal springs)

here you can find a video about:
https://obdapp.blog/2022/07/20/was-macht-eigentlich-mein-luftfahrwerk-die-ganze-zeit/

 

[Dee]

I dunno if i would say that's true. I've noticed that in range mode which lowers the car, the ride is harsher than at normal. This is probably because the reduced suspension travel so instead of being on the springs, you're riding the bump stops which is going to much harsher.

In Range mode the dampers are harder to compensate for decreased suspension travel, that's what you're feeling, not the bump stops.
Range mode has it's own fixed chassis setting.
If you lower the car in Normal mode (without damper adjustment) you'll find it's the same comfort.

I've lowered my car by hardware 10mm (and 20mm) and there's no difference in comfort.

 

[f1eng]

In Range mode the dampers are harder to compensate for decreased suspension travel, that's what you're feeling, not the bump stops.
Range mode has it's own fixed chassis setting.
If you lower the car in Normal mode (without damper adjustment) you'll find it's the same comfort.

I've lowered my car by hardware 10mm (and 20mm) and there's no difference in comfort.

It will depend how bumpy it is. You have as much less bump travel as you have lowered it, so with the same damping it will run out of travel that much earlier.
If you only drive on smooth roads it will probably be fine.

The main reason I chose a CT was 20mm more bump travel for the roads where I live.

I wouldn't dream of lowering a road car myself

 

[Dee]

You have as much less bump travel as you have lowered it, so with the same damping it will run out of travel that much earlier.

That's why it's so nice to have the ability to tighten the dampers.

When I lowered mine I was more worried about excessive tire wear on the inside.
On the rear it was fine but on the front there was a bit more wear.
That's why I only did 10mm, not 20mm cuz you could really notice the increased negative camber...

I think when going 20mm or more you need to realign the wheels if you don't want premature wear of the tires.

 

[Archimedes]

Hmmm, I've lowered the car in normal mode and it is definitely firmer in the lower setting, even without changing the dampers at all.

Personally, I think slamming these cars so that there's no wheel gap on top of the wheel, and plenty fore and aft, looks awful.

 

[buruburu]

That's why it's so nice to have the ability to tighten the dampers.

When I lowered mine I was more worried about excessive tire wear on the inside.
On the rear it was fine but on the front there was a bit more wear.
That's why I only did 10mm, not 20mm cuz you could really notice the increased negative camber...

I think when going 20mm or more you need to realign the wheels if you don't want premature wear of the tires.

Hmm... sure if you want to blow the dampers. Its primary purpose is to control the oscillation of the vehicle when it goes over bumps. Sure you can tighten it, but then now you run into situation where the excess pressure can cause undue wear.

Really, if you want to lower the car, the best way IMO is to reduce the length of the overall length of the damper body. That way you keep the travel and spring rate the same and you're just adjust static ride height.

 

[Mr.Smith]

The wheel gap on a 911 is just perfect

 

[Dee]

Hmm... sure if you want to blow the dampers.

??
Range mode does exactly that: tighten the dampers for a lowered ride height.
In fact, there are three settings, even harder in Sport Plus.

Do you think Porsche make crappy dampers that'll blow when hitting a put hole?
Don't be ridiculous.
If your damper blows you've hit something that would damage your car and wheels in an more serious way anyway, like when hitting a speed bump at 150mph.

 

[buruburu]

??
Range mode does exactly that: tighten the dampers for a lowered ride height.
In fact, there are three settings, even harder in Sport Plus.

Do you think Porsche make crappy dampers that'll blow when hitting a put hole?
Don't be ridiculous.
If your damper blows you've hit something that would damage your car and wheels in an more serious way anyway, like when hitting a speed bump at 150mph.

They make setting that work in very specific operating parameters. Yes, range mode lowers it even more, but if you've ever hit a bump in highway speed in range mode the impact to the entire car is way more jarring than if you were in sport low or normal. The vertical G shock is enough to trigger my dashcam. If you're driving in 100% smooth highways and don't have to worry about bump or holes from repair, then yes, you can probably get away with it.

Also, the Chassis settings you have there is adjusting the equivalent of valving in the dampers. It affects the rate of oscillation. When you lower, you are reducing travel. The concern that I have with lower is the reduction of travel and you end up bottoming the chassis against the suspension which creates MORE shock to the chassis. This is where you start damaging things cause you're asking for things that aren't meant to compress to compress.

 

[DerekS]

Call me crazy but I think lowering an EV is playing with fire.

When you pierce the battery on something, don't expect warranty to cover a modified vehicle...

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