Should I get performance battery

whan

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That’s an interesting post Whan, thanks. To clarify, are you saying that the cabling options are a waste of money? I’m based in the U.K. where we don’t have many super fast chargers and the Porsche cabling options are very expensive.
I'm not fully familiar with UK options, but as far as the 0GBP cables that I see in the UK configurator, that depends on what the plug in the wall in your home looks like. I don't see the Porsche Mobile Charger Connect is an option anymore in UK (believe there is a stop sale), but you shouldn't get it either way. Very expensive and doesn't provide any additional charging speed or functionality vs. the free charger cable. Also has some issues with overheating

The "On-board" charger and converters are not cabling, they are modules inside the car that allow for additional charging capability. One is for fast charging at 400V stations (That is the 150kw DC-DC converter), and the other is for increased charging rates at home (22kw on-board charger). In UK and Europe, I've heard there are far more 400V charging stations than in the US. Also Tesla has opened up their network in much of Europe to non-Teslas. I would get this option, living in the UK. It is also not that expensive at only 294GBP

The 22kw on-board charger is only useful if your house/residence can provide 22kw. It allows your Taycan to receive charge at max rate of 22kw, vs. the standard 11kw. With the usable large battery being 83.7kwh, it takes ~4hrs to charge from 0-100% at 22kw (83.7/22) and ~8hrs at 11kw (83.7/11).

In the US, the common appliance outlet that is also used for EV charging is typically 240V and 50Amps, which is 12kw (240*50, kw = Volts*amps) maximum (in practice usually only 40Amps for safety, so 9.6kw). In this circumstance, increasing the home charging cap from 11kw to 22kw is useless since the house can't provide much above 11kw anyhow. I know in the US in order to add capability to 22kw, there is significant infrastructure work needed, and for many homes it's not even possible as it's constrained by the power lines. I have heard in Europe it is more common / more possible, but still perhaps uncommon.

In general I think the 22kw charging isn't that useful anyhow. The use case is pretty limited. The scenarios of you driving 250-300 miles in a day (6-8 hours), using all the battery, then returning home and needing to charge as fast as possible to head back out, are minimal. Most people will fully charge at night, so there will already be 8 hours of charging time available just from that.
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RBGtaycan

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After my summer of road tripping at 27K miles I am getting 210-220 at 100%.
WITH the performance battery.

I'm still hoping the guess-o-meter will crawl back up to where it was (~235 at 85%, ~275 at 100%.) I am losing hope though and may get the battery health checked.
which battery have you? that's pretty low for both batteries but awful for larger...
 

JRNJTAYCAN

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Should I get performance battery I’m already above my budget but my dealer said they recommend it
Having extra range is never a bad thing but at what cost?

I have a 22 RWD and can honestly say I never had to worry about range. I had a hard time with the PB+ when I placed my order but the little range it offered given the high expense was not worth it for me and do not regret it after 6 months of driving. If the extra range cost $1K or less I would have done it or if the extra cost that Porsche is charging gave me far better range (up to 400 miles) I would have done it.

Bottom line is save your money!
 

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i got the bigger battery not for the extra range but for the extra power beyond 60mph
 


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I'm not fully familiar with UK options, but as far as the 0GBP cables that I see in the UK configurator, that depends on what the plug in the wall in your home looks like. I don't see the Porsche Mobile Charger Connect is an option anymore in UK (believe there is a stop sale), but you shouldn't get it either way. Very expensive and doesn't provide any additional charging speed or functionality vs. the free charger cable. Also has some issues with overheating

The "On-board" charger and converters are not cabling, they are modules inside the car that allow for additional charging capability. One is for fast charging at 400V stations (That is the 150kw DC-DC converter), and the other is for increased charging rates at home (22kw on-board charger). In UK and Europe, I've heard there are far more 400V charging stations than in the US. Also Tesla has opened up their network in much of Europe to non-Teslas. I would get this option, living in the UK. It is also not that expensive at only 294GBP

The 22kw on-board charger is only useful if your house/residence can provide 22kw. It allows your Taycan to receive charge at max rate of 22kw, vs. the standard 11kw. With the usable large battery being 83.7kwh, it takes ~4hrs to charge from 0-100% at 22kw (83.7/22) and ~8hrs at 11kw (83.7/11).

In the US, the common appliance outlet that is also used for EV charging is typically 240V and 50Amps, which is 12kw (240*50, kw = Volts*amps) maximum (in practice usually only 40Amps for safety, so 9.6kw). In this circumstance, increasing the home charging cap from 11kw to 22kw is useless since the house can't provide much above 11kw anyhow. I know in the US in order to add capability to 22kw, there is significant infrastructure work needed, and for many homes it's not even possible as it's constrained by the power lines. I have heard in Europe it is more common / more possible, but still perhaps uncommon.

In general I think the 22kw charging isn't that useful anyhow. The use case is pretty limited. The scenarios of you driving 250-300 miles in a day (6-8 hours), using all the battery, then returning home and needing to charge as fast as possible to head back out, are minimal. Most people will fully charge at night, so there will already be 8 hours of charging time available just from that.
That’s the clearest explanation I have read, thoughtful, informed and considerate. I really appreciate your time and effort, brilliant! Thank you
 

whan

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Bottom line is that omitting PB+ is a risky move. Of course there will be plenty of folks who are perfectly happy going with the standard battery. Many use cases don't need a lot of range - people with Mini Cooper EVs are often quite happy with those cars and use case, despite low range

But there are far more folks who didn't get PBP who regret not getting it, vs. those that did get it and regret it. In my opinion it's too big a risk to take to not get it, for a car at this price range. As mentioned before, many people won't consider a used one without the large battery unless it's priced towards the bottom of comparable cars.

Going with the standard battery mostly makes sense if you're gonna get a light spec build with minimal options. Otherwise for high spec builds you're choosing low value add cosmetic options over a functional option that adds both range and power, which is hard to justify
 


WRC_1S

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If you live in a warmer all year round climate then don't bother. If you live in a cold autumn and winter climate its worth it. Temp in the NE of England is starting to drop and I'm already seeing a small range drop when charged. I got it having researched the lower winter charging distances where I live, that's it.
 

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Another + for the performance battery is that over time the standard battery charging potential will naturally decline and mileage along w/ it. So the performance battery will keep you from having a range of, say, 160 miles (charging to the recommended 80%), when the car is 7-8 years old.
 
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RingoDingo

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What's your mileage and your use? Any long high speed road trips?
Nope - all short trips.
Another + for the performance battery is that over time the standard battery charging potential will naturally decline and mileage along w/ it. So the performance battery will keep you from having a range of, say, 160 miles (charging to the recommended 80%), when the car is 7-8 years old.
Or you could invest the $6k and have $12k to buy a brand new battery in 8 years if you're still driving the thing. :)
 

f1eng

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Several reviewers here in the UK have preferred the base RWD on coil springs, as a driver's car, to the more up market models with 4WD and air suspension.
It is lighter and simpler and if choosing one for that reason I definitely wouldn't add more weight for the bigger battery, personally.
It is also a lot of extra money for not much more range but most humans aren't very logical so if buying with resale after not long in mind it would maybe be worth ticking the option.

IMO one future business opportunity will be battery pack rebuilds.
 

WRC_1S

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Several reviewers here in the UK have preferred the base RWD on coil springs, as a driver's car, to the more up market models with 4WD and air suspension.
It is lighter and simpler and if choosing one for that reason I definitely wouldn't add more weight for the bigger battery, personally.
It is also a lot of extra money for not much more range but most humans aren't very logical so if buying with resale after not long in mind it would maybe be worth ticking the option.

IMO one future business opportunity will be battery pack rebuilds.
Is the car heavier with coilovers or air suspension Frank? Genuine question. I picked coliovers simply because my build was getting pricey for me and my old 911 had coilovers and was ace. I didn't even consider a weight advantage/disadvantage. I picked PB+ for winter range. That's it.
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