Porsche Wall Charger Connect | Unbox & Install

[W1NGE]

I only now see that you are located in Russia. The Porsche Wall Charger PWCC is only available in the US. In Russia and the rest of Europe there is only the Porsche Mobile Charger available. This can be throttled to 11kw by using the touch screen. But it is a mobile device anyhow and you have to have a matching wall socket to connect it. It always comes with cable and plug.

PMCC can also be throttled via the user interface.

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[Taytayshayshay]

Newbie question. Are you seeing charging speeds about 2x what you'd have with the "standard" charger? How much time are you averaging from empty to 85%?

 

[Muskoka]

I am looking at purchasing a PWCC for my Taycan that is arriving in August. Has anyone had success using this to charge other cars such as a Mach E?

 

[W1NGE]

It is not a charger - the charger is physically inside the car.

This holds true for anything you hitherto have assumed as being a "charger".

All EVs charge in the same way.

Ergo, any wallbox/ EVSE will charge any car.

The trick is to use the charging control features in the car and not the EVSE.

 

[boney12]

satchurator, first of all thank you for posting the detailed installation steps for the PWCC.

What size (and from where) did you end up getting the fasteners (similar to M8 x 200 mm) in the US?

 

[satchurator]

satchurator, first of all thank you for posting the detailed installation steps for the PWCC.

What size (and from where) did you end up getting the fasteners (similar to M8 x 200 mm) ?

@boney12 You are very welcome. I got most of the fasteners and extra bits from McMaster-Carr.

Here's a list of the parts that I used:

1. For the two center holes, I needed something that would screw directly into wooden studs. Although the PWCC instructions called for M8x200mm, because of my specific situation, I needed slightly longer screws in order to account for my standoff spacers and still have enough depth into the studs.

• Longer version (clearance for satchurator's slatwall) Hex Head Screws for Wood, 18-8 Stainless Steel, 5/16" Size, 10" Long: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/92351A119
• 'Normal' version (closest US/Imperial equivalent to M8x200mm) Hex Head Screws for Wood, 18-8 Stainless Steel, 5/16" Size, 8" Long: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/92351A118
• M8 corrosion-resistant steel washers, diameter sized to fit all four screw bosses (two recessed, two raised) and the rubber washers found in the PWCC parts-bag: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/93413A214

2. For the side holes, since these were going into gypsum drywall, I went with allen bolts and beefy toggle anchors:

• Black-Oxide Alloy Steel Socket Head Screw, 5/16"-18 Thread Size, 7" Long (yes, less than 200mm but sufficient to connect with the toggle anchor): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/91251A661
• High-Strength Toggle Anchors, Zinc Plated, for 5/16"-18 Thread, 3/8"-2-1/2" Usable Length: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/97802A325
• Plus two of the above linked M8 steel washers and PWCC-included rubber washers.

To generalize:

• The nearest non-metric size to M8 is 5/16".
• The 200mm length is Porsche's generalization for clearance of the very deep screw bosses, and depth of fastener into the supporting structure. You may need to adapt the length for your specific situation.

Some additional pictures below to visualize the fastener parts of the install:

The hefty 10 inch 5/16 hex screw. Definitely needed an electric driver.

Same for the allen bolt. Ratchet wrench, plus extension for the super deep screw bosses was essential to torque it down nice and tight.

Dry-fit of the upper three fasteners.

The screw bosses are all sealed. You need to pre-drill the ones you are going to use. Its slightly tricky - what worked for me was to do small pilot holes, then drill with a 5/16 bit, then widen with a needle file to just enough for the fastener.

Fasteners with washers etc. On mine you can see the standoff spacers plus extra washers I added to get the unit flush with my slatwall - not needed for a 'normal' install.

PWCC unit on its side, with all fasteners placed, ready for mounting. Again, you won't need the extra washers seen here for a normal install onto a flat wall.

The mounted unit, before centering, torquing and adding the enclosure lid. Since I was doing this ahead of my electrician visit, I knew it would have to come back off for the hole-sawing of the chassis for fitment of conduit, attachment of the supply cable etc.

 

[boney12]

@boney12 You are very welcome. I got most of the fasteners and extra bits from McMaster-Carr.

Here's a list of the parts that I used:

1. For the two center holes, I needed something that would screw directly into wooden studs. Although the PWCC instructions called for M8x200mm, because of my specific situation, I needed slightly longer screws in order to account for my standoff spacers and still have enough depth into the studs.

• Longer version (clearance for satchurator's slatwall) Hex Head Screws for Wood, 18-8 Stainless Steel, 5/16" Size, 10" Long: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/92351A119
• 'Normal' version (closest US/Imperial equivalent to M8x200mm) Hex Head Screws for Wood, 18-8 Stainless Steel, 5/16" Size, 8" Long: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/92351A118
• M8 corrosion-resistant steel washers, diameter sized to fit all four screw bosses (two recessed, two raised) and the rubber washers found in the PWCC parts-bag: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/93413A214

2. For the side holes, since these were going into gypsum drywall, I went with allen bolts and beefy toggle anchors:

• Black-Oxide Alloy Steel Socket Head Screw, 5/16"-18 Thread Size, 7" Long (yes, less than 200mm but sufficient to connect with the toggle anchor): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/91251A661
• High-Strength Toggle Anchors, Zinc Plated, for 5/16"-18 Thread, 3/8"-2-1/2" Usable Length: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/97802A325
• Plus two of the above linked M8 steel washers and PWCC-included rubber washers.

To generalize:

• The nearest non-metric size to M8 is 5/16".
• The 200mm length is Porsche's generalization for clearance of the very deep screw bosses, and depth of fastener into the supporting structure. You may need to adapt the length for your specific situation.

Some additional pictures below to visualize the fastener parts of the install:

The hefty 10 inch 5/16 hex screw. Definitely needed an electric driver.

Same for the allen bolt. Ratchet wrench, plus extension for the super deep screw bosses was essential to torque it down nice and tight.

Dry-fit of the upper three fasteners.

The screw bosses are all sealed. You need to pre-drill the ones you are going to use. Its slightly tricky - what worked for me was to do small pilot holes, then drill with a 5/16 bit, then widen with a needle file to just enough for the fastener.

Fasteners with washers etc. On mine you can see the standoff spacers plus extra washers I added to get the unit flush with my slatwall - not needed for a 'normal' install.

PWCC unit on its side, with all fasteners placed, ready for mounting. Again, you won't need the extra washers seen here for a normal install onto a flat wall.

The mounted unit, before centering, torquing and adding the enclosure lid. Since I was doing this ahead of my electrician visit, I knew it would have to come back off for the hole-sawing of the chassis for fitment of conduit, attachment of the supply cable etc.

Thank you Sir. Much appreciated.

 

[buhhy]

Thanks for the super detailed write-up satchurator! Do you know if it's possible to have the conduit enter the unit from behind (i.e. mount over a junction box) as opposed to having the conduit exit the wall, then enter the PWCC from the bottom/top?

Also, has anyone compared the PWCC to the Clippercreek 80A? The PWCC is surprisingly cheaper, but the cable is shorter at 4.5m vs 7.5 on the Clippercreek.

 

[satchurator]

Thanks for the super detailed write-up satchurator! Do you know if it's possible to have the conduit enter the unit from behind (i.e. mount over a junction box) as opposed to having the conduit exit the wall, then enter the PWCC from the bottom/top?

Also, has anyone compared the PWCC to the Clippercreek 80A? The PWCC is surprisingly cheaper, but the cable is shorter at 4.5m vs 7.5 on the Clippercreek.

@buhhy You're very welcome! I enjoyed geeking out on the whole process and sharing the experience here.

Regarding your question about conduit entering the unit from behind. Somebody asked a similar question earlier in the thread. Take a look from post #18 and read the 2-3 replies including mine.

 

[spicyypenguin]

@buhhy You're very welcome! I enjoyed geeking out on the whole process and sharing the experience here.

Regarding your question about conduit entering the unit from behind. Somebody asked a similar question earlier in the thread. Take a look from post #18 and read the 2-3 replies including mine.

That person who asked a few months ago was me!

So I did get the PWCC installed with the advice from @satchurator and @porscheguy - we were able to get all the conduit to enter through the back of the unit as they both mentioned.

From what I understand, if you want the PWCC to accept 100A - then you may need a sub-breaker dedicated sub-panel/external breaker to provide power, which would require a metal conduit that would enter through the top or bottom.

However, for 60A input - the metal conduit is not required. It does need to be hardwired through. This is the setup I have. My electrician fished a line from our circuit breaker through the wall, made a hole behind the PWCC, and completed the wiring from the back of the unit. Our electrician made sure that everything was installed properly and up to building code.

 

[satchurator]

That person who asked a few months ago was me!

So I did get the PWCC installed with the advice from @satchurator and @porscheguy - we were able to get all the conduit to enter through the back of the unit as they both mentioned.

Back to the future! Congratulations @spicyypenguin ! Looks neat and tidy.

From what I understand, if you want the PWCC to accept 100A - then you may need a sub-breaker to provide power, which would require a metal conduit that would enter through the top or bottom.

However, for 60A input - the metal conduit is not required. It does need to be hardwired through. This is the setup I have. My electrician simply fished a line from our circuit breaker through the wall, made a hole behind the PWCC, and completed the wiring from the back of the unit.

I would ask an electrician about this. There are multiple factors relative to US electrical code.
In my case, we almost went with 40 feet of 2-AWG all the way from the main panel and directly into the back of the PWCC through the wall cavity. However we had doubts about 1) the requirement of a switch or breaker within immediate reach of the PWCC, and 2) the likelihood of foam blown insulation in the wall cavity which would have been a real PITA to get super chunky 2-AWG through and out into the PWCC.

For the PWCC max of 80A, I was required to add a dedicated 100A breaker to my main panel. Due to doubt #1, we added the junction box to terminate the 40 feet of 2-AWG and then had a short run of 3-AWG through 1.25" conduit as required by code and the PWCC install instructions (for a 100A conductor that would be otherwise 'exposed').

Arguably a sub-panel would have been more practical instead of the junction box, and would have left open other options (e.g. a second PWCC along with the Porsche HEM if it ever goes on sale in the US), but in my case I had limited space for the install location and didn't want the additional complexity.

 

[spicyypenguin]

Back to the future! Congratulations @spicyypenguin ! Looks neat and tidy.



I would ask an electrician about this. There are multiple factors relative to US electrical code.
In my case, we almost went with 40 feet of 2-AWG all the way and directly into the back of the PWCC through the wall cavity. However we had doubts about 1) the requirement of a switch or breaker within immediate reach of the PWCC, and 2) the likelihood of foam blown insulation in the wall cavity which would have been a real PITA to get super chunky 2-AWG through and out into the PWCC.

For the PWCC max of 80A, I was required to add a dedicated 100A breaker to my main panel. Due to doubt #1, we added the junction box and then had a short run of 3-AWG through 1.25" conduit as required by code and the PWCC install instructions (for a 100A conductor that would be otherwise 'exposed').

Thanks!

I believe you are correct about that. I mistakingly wrote sub-breaker in my previous response but I meant to say external sub-panel/breaker box (e.g. the dedicated 100A breaker you have in your set-up).

 

[satchurator]

Also, has anyone compared the PWCC to the Clippercreek 80A? The PWCC is surprisingly cheaper, but the cable is shorter at 4.5m vs 7.5 on the Clippercreek.

I did look seriously at the Clippercreek 80A model, when I was considering an install to leave open the possibility of adding a second EVSE with load sharing on a 100A circuit. However, at the time (Q3 2021) the Clippercreek 80A had a long lead time (beyond my delivery date) and was surprisingly more expensive than the PWCC.

Influencing my ultimate decision: I did figure that the PWCC would offer a more integrated experience with the Taycan. EVSE's are very simple really, so there's not much value for an EVSE to add, but I am hopeful that the product will continue to get developed. I'll be interested to see if the Porsche HEM comes to the US. Or perhaps other EEBUS integrations will allow something else to influence the Taycan's Optimized Charging feature. Touched on that topic in this other thread.

 

[buhhy]

That person who asked a few months ago was me!

So I did get the PWCC installed with the advice from @satchurator and @porscheguy - we were able to get all the conduit to enter through the back of the unit as they both mentioned.

From what I understand, if you want the PWCC to accept 100A - then you may need a sub-breaker dedicated sub-panel/external breaker to provide power, which would require a metal conduit that would enter through the top or bottom.

However, for 60A input - the metal conduit is not required. It does need to be hardwired through. This is the setup I have. My electrician fished a line from our circuit breaker through the wall, made a hole behind the PWCC, and completed the wiring from the back of the unit. Our electrician made sure that everything was installed properly and up to building code.

Nice! I like the cleaner look of no visible conduit. Is there a knockout at the back of the unit to pull in the THHN wire from the junction box? Could I trouble you to take a picture of the inside of the unit?

I did look seriously at the Clippercreek 80A model, when I was considering an install to leave open the possibility of adding a second EVSE with load sharing on a 100A circuit. However, at the time (Q3 2021) the Clippercreek 80A had a long lead time (beyond my delivery date) and was surprisingly more expensive than the PWCC.

Influencing my ultimate decision: I did figure that the PWCC would offer a more integrated experience with the Taycan. EVSE's are very simple really, so there's not much value for an EVSE to add, but I am hopeful that the product will continue to get developed. I'll be interested to see if the Porsche HEM comes to the US. Or perhaps other EEBUS integrations will allow something else to influence the Taycan's Optimized Charging feature. Touched on that topic in this other thread.

It is rather shocking that a Porsche branded product is price-competitive
Has the shorter cable been an issue and has the unit been trouble-free for you?

 

[TDinDC]

FWIW, I already had a Tesla Charger, so my electrician left that connected but used the same circuit for my new PWCC. You cannot use both simultaneously (doing so would just trip the breaker), but it is nice having both so that you don't have to fuss with adaptors.

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